{"id":21108,"date":"2014-10-29T18:11:03","date_gmt":"2014-10-29T18:11:03","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/avidcruiser.com\/livevoyagereports\/?page_id=7276"},"modified":"2016-06-29T08:11:34","modified_gmt":"2016-06-29T14:11:34","slug":"day-1-bordeaux","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/live-voyage-reports\/viking-forseti-chateaux-rivers-wine\/day-1-bordeaux\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 1 – Bordeaux"},"content":{"rendered":"

In Wine Heaven in Bordeaux with Viking River Cruises<\/h3>\n
\"Beautiful<\/a>

Beautiful Bordeaux, France. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Aaron Saunders, Live Voyage Reports<\/strong><\/p>\n

Saturday, November 22, 2014<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

After a long day of travel from North America, I am finally onboard Viking River Cruises\u2019 Viking Forseti<\/em><\/strong> for what surely has to be one of the most culturally-enriching itineraries in France: Viking\u2019s weeklong Chateaux, Rivers & Wine<\/strong> river cruise that makes its debut season this year.<\/p>\n

\"Viking<\/a>

Viking Forseti in Bordeaux, France at sunset on November 22, 2014. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

This is no ordinary river cruise, though. Not only is it operated entirely on an estuary subjected to tidal fluctuations from the nearby Atlantic Ocean, this voyage also has the distinction of sailing roundtrip from Bordeaux, France<\/strong>. Most river cruises sail point-to-point; roundtrip voyages are exceedingly rare, and Viking Forseti<\/em>\u2019s Program Director, Mieke Bakker, noted tonight that ours is one of the few voyages to be \u201ccontrolled by the Moon.\u201d Tides dictate port calls and scheduling, resulting in an overall program that can vary to some degree from week to week. However, rather than sticking with an itinerary that is no longer feasible due to the tides, Viking\u2019s always has two or three backup plans on-hand, and most departures go off without a hitch.<\/p>\n

Getting here is relatively easy from North America. Most connections will route you through either Amsterdam on KLM, or Paris on Air France. If you can get to one of those two hubs, you can get to Bordeaux.<\/p>\n

\"My<\/a>

My journey to Bordeaux and the Viking Forseti took me through Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport, and a quick 90-minute jaunt on a KLM Cityhopper E190. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

In my case, my journey to Bordeaux began in Vancouver, where I flew on Delta to Amsterdam via Minneapolis, and then on to Bordeaux on KLM. If there\u2019s a downside to transiting through Amsterdam\u2019s fabulous Schiphol Airport, it\u2019s that the city of Amsterdam itself is tantalizingly close. Let\u2019s face it \u2013 Europe just has too many cool cities.<\/p>\n

Upon landing, I was met \u2013 along with about half of KLM flight 1315, it turns out \u2013 by Viking\u2019s shoreside representatives at the airport, where we were then whisked by Viking-branded Mercedes coaches to the Viking Forseti<\/em> in the heart of Bordeaux.<\/p>\n

\"You<\/a>

You always know which bus is yours with Viking, which has a fleet of branded Mercedes coaches in France and throughout Europe. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Bordeaux is a very special city. When the suburbs are all put together to create metropolitan Bordeaux, the city becomes the sixth-largest municipality in France. Thanks to its location in the southwestern quadrant of the country (Bilbao, Spain is only three hours away by car), Bordeaux is nice and temperate, even in November. When my KLM flight touched down around lunchtime at Bordeaux-Merignac Airport<\/a>, the mercury was hovering at a positively balmy 19\u00b0C (67\u00b0F).<\/p>\n

\"Bordeaux<\/a>

Bordeaux on a fall day is both quaint and alluring. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

You might be surprised, however, to learn that Bordeaux hasn\u2019t always been the gorgeous tourist mecca that it is today. As recently as the mid-1990\u2019s, the mostly-industrial city was in shambles after years of neglect. Its historic buildings were covered in soot and grime, and dull, unsightly factories cluttered the landscape. Public trams didn\u2019t exist. The riverfront promenade that now borders the Garonne River <\/strong>didn\u2019t exist. As a tourist destination, the Bordeaux of old was merde<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"Bordeaux<\/a>

Bordeaux today is a walkable, inviting city with a plethora of quaint cafes, upscale shops, and – of course – wine. C’est vrai. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Enter Bordeaux\u2019s mayor, Alain Jupp\u00e9. Jupp\u00e9 felt that Bordeaux could be returned to its former glory without sacrificing its important industrial roots and bring in tourists at the same time. In order to make Bordeaux a world-class city, he had the tram line constructed that now runs a fleet of whisper-quiet light-rail vehicles through town \u2013 literally. Watch that you don\u2019t get smoked by one of these when you\u2019re out wandering around.<\/p>\n

Juppe also had the buildings cleaned and restored, the riverfront promenade built, and the unsightly warehouses removed from the city\u2019s inner core.<\/p>\n

\"Bienvenue<\/a>

Bienvenue a Bordeaux. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

The result was dramatic: underneath the grime and neglect lay a city that was every bit as beautiful as Paris and as alluring as its southern counterparts on the Cote d\u2019Azur. Jupp\u00e9 would go on to serve as Prime Minister of France, and was re-elected as Mayor of Bordeaux in 2006, a position he retains to this day.<\/p>\n

With an afternoon of shopping behind me (and a much-needed new pair of swanky European pants purchased), I made my way back in the glow of the setting sun to the Viking Forseti<\/em> at her Quai des Chartrons<\/em> berth. It\u2019s a brand-new docking location for the line, and one that was just inaugurated last month.<\/p>\n

\"Bordeaux's<\/a>

Bordeaux’s Reflecting Pool during a calm moment. Water jets raise the water high into the air at certain intervals. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Although it is situated farther from the retail therapy hub of Bordeaux, the new docking location makes a lot of sense. Coach parking is locates just steps away, and the neighbourhood surrounding the pier is filled with couples out for a romantic stroll and kids running zipping around on skateboards. There are funky shops nearby, cool riverfront eateries, and yet it is removed from the crush of tourists that the reflective pool, or Miroir d\u2019Eau, <\/em>(mirror of water) has created.<\/p>\n

Plus, Bordeaux is exceptionally walkable. I\u2019d highly recommend getting out for a stroll along the promenade at sunset.<\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

To me, stepping aboard a Viking River Cruises ship is like coming home. That\u2019s not a knock against the competition; frankly, no one offers a truly bad <\/em>river cruise. But Viking\u2019s warm Scandinavian styling, endless walls of glass, and casual elegance fit my personality like a glove.<\/p>\n

Viking Forseti<\/em> is no exception to this rule. Launched in 2013, she was moved to Bordeaux at great expense to pioneer this new itinerary for Viking this year. To me, there\u2019s nothing like stepping into the glass-filled atrium, or enjoying a cappuccino out on the Aquavit Terrace.<\/p>\n

\"My<\/a>

My home for the week: a Category A Veranda on Deck 3. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

My home for the week is a really fabulous Category A Veranda <\/strong>on Upper Deck (3)<\/strong>. With its own step-out balcony at 205 square feet of living space, it\u2019s suitably comfortable for two people to sail in, and enormously spacious if you\u2019re travelling solo like I am.<\/p>\n

The first thing I do whenever I step into my stateroom on a Viking Longship for the first time is activate the music. The interactive television system includes dozens of hours of audio-on-demand, all of which come pumped through the surround-sound-esque speakers embedded into the ceiling. I love film scores, and there\u2019s a nice mix of film music worked into the \u201cClassical\u201d channel. It\u2019s such a simple thing, yet I find it so relaxing and soothing.<\/p>\n

\"First<\/a>

First things first: let’s turn on some music from the fabulous streaming music selection available on each Viking Longship. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

The second thing I do: switch on the heated floor in the bathroom<\/strong>. A Viking Longship staple since Day One, the heated floor is something their designers could have easily done away with for reasons of cost or complexity. Instead, they\u2019ve kept it, and it\u2019s one of my favorite features.<\/p>\n

What I appreciate most about these staterooms are is their intelligent design. To the casual observer, you\u2019d think creating a room that is bright, open, and welcoming \u2013 yet functional at the same time \u2013 would be easy. It\u2019s not. With each successive Longship, Viking has been steadily tweaking nearly every aspect of their ships. Electrical outlets positioning and style has changed. Light switch design and location has changed. Table tops, grab-handles on drawers, reading lights, shelving, soft furnishings \u2013 even the switch on the vacuum toilet system \u2013 has all been subtly altered on each successive Longship. That\u2019s impressive, because the rooms were pretty darn spectacular to start with.<\/p>\n

\"Facing<\/a>

Facing the desk and vanity area in my stateroom. Notice that Viking has fixed the desk aboard Viking Forseti; the earliest Longships used to have desks that tapered off at the extreme edges. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Your<\/a>

Your keycard controls the lighting in your stateroom, but power outlets and the television will remain on without it. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Check<\/a>

Check out all the different lighting options over the bed, including overhead lights (not pictured). Viking’s beds are extremely comfortable, too. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Glass-bottled<\/a>

Glass-bottled water is replenished daily. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"The<\/a>

The bathroom of my Category A Balcony stateroom is similar to those in other categories. Note the brown countertops; a unique feature to Viking Forseti. Most Longships bathroom counters are grey or light brown. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"L'Occitane<\/a>

L’Occitane Toiletries; standard on Viking, essential in France. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Viking's<\/a>

Viking’s showers are some of the best on the rivers. Compact but highly functional. The heated floor’s not bad, either! Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

<\/a>

Fun Bathroom Feature: a hidden night-light that provides enough illumination that you never have to flip on the overhead lights during those “midnight runs.” Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Part<\/a>

Part of my balcony. They’re smaller than a typical cruise ship, but still very enjoyable and useful. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

So why the full balcony in the off-season? Simply put \u2013 I enjoy it. I\u2019ll wrap myself in my coat and sit out there with a cup of coffee, or simply stand on the balcony to watch as we sail into and out of port. I also like that I can be out on the balcony without cooling off the rest of the room; you can\u2019t shut the door behind you if you have a French Balcony. Today, though, no coats are necessary \u2013 it\u2019s practically summer outside!<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re perhaps wondering what the difference between Category A<\/strong> and Category B <\/strong>rooms one deck lower are, you\u2019ve just answered your own question: their only difference (aside from price) is their physical location on the ship.<\/p>\n

\"Guests<\/a>

Guests wander back onboard Viking Forseti at her new berth in Bordeaux, France. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Aside from the Viking Forseti <\/em>herself, wine plays a very prominent role on this voyage. This week, we\u2019ll be able to enjoy complimentary wine tasting excursions in Pauillac, Margaux, and Sauternes, and you can even extend your wine appreciation with an optional excursion to Chateau Siaurac to taste the Pomerol and Saint-Emilion wines that the chateau produces. But what can you do if you don\u2019t really know what makes a good wine? Once again, Viking is prepared for this. In addition to providing guests with printed guidebooks for each river, their website is an amazing wealth of information \u2013 like this 23 minute video on wine and wine tasting with Viking\u2019s Karine Hagen<\/strong> and Master of Wine and writer Susie Barrie<\/strong>. I love wine, but I\u2019ll be the first to admit I don\u2019t know as much about it as I\u2019d like to (that red one\u2019s pretty tasty\u2026)<\/em>. After watching this video pre-cruise, hopefully I\u2019ll be able to bluff my way through the rest of the week:<\/p>\n