{"id":21109,"date":"2014-10-29T18:12:55","date_gmt":"2014-10-29T18:12:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/avidcruiser.com\/livevoyagereports\/?page_id=7280"},"modified":"2016-06-29T08:11:34","modified_gmt":"2016-06-29T14:11:34","slug":"day-2-pauillac","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/live-voyage-reports\/viking-forseti-chateaux-rivers-wine\/day-2-pauillac\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 2 – Pauillac"},"content":{"rendered":"

Joie de Vivre – The Joy Of Life<\/h3>\n
\"Our<\/a>

Our Chateaux, Rivers and Wine voyage with Viking River Cruises got off to a spectacular start today with an incredibly intricate series of adventures on shore. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cOne should always be drunk. That\u2019s all that matters\u2026but with what? With wine, with poetry, or with virtue, as you choose. But get drunk.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

– Charles Baudelaire<\/p>\n

Aaron Saunders, Live Voyage Reports<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

November 23, 2014<\/strong><\/p>\n

Our first full day aboard Viking River Cruises\u2019 Viking Forseti<\/em><\/strong> began on a decidedly relaxing note. Unlike many river cruises that kick into high gear straight away, Viking\u2019s Chateaux, Rivers & Wine<\/strong> itinerary began with a leisurely departure from Bordeaux in the early morning hours, followed by a morning of scenic cruising up to Pauillac, France<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>

A beautiful start to the morning, as seen from my balcony onboard Viking Forseti. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Whenever people ask me why I like river cruising so much, I always point out mornings like this. The first thing I saw when I drew open the curtains of my stateroom was the beautiful grapefruit-pink colour of the sky as the sun tried to peek between the clouds. When I opened the balcony door and took a step out, I could hear dogs barking in the distance and roosters calling out. What you don\u2019t hear on a river cruise \u2013 at least, not on a Viking Longship \u2013 is the ship itself. Even now, nearly three years after the first Longships were introduced, I am still amazed at how quietly these operate. Rather than being drowned out by a series of exhaust blowers or engine vibrations, all you can here on a Viking Longship is the soft rippling of the water as it passes along the hull.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>

A quiet Viking Forseti in the early morning of Sunday, November 23, 2014. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

After showering and dressing, I made my way down to The Restaurant on Deck 1 for breakfast. Once again, nearly every river cruise line offers a tremendous spread of goodies for breakfast, but Viking\u2019s homemade fruit yogurt and fresh-baked breads really do the trick for me. I hear the muesli is pretty darn good, too.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The mixed-media artwork that adorns the top of Viking Forseti’s central staircase. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Sailing<\/a>

Sailing into Pauillac, France. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

I was onboard Viking Forseti<\/em> for two short nights back in March as part of Viking\u2019s massive 2014 Christening celebrations that saw 18 ships welcomed into the fleet in a single week, and it\u2019s really nice to see so many familiar faces among the crew. The 2014 river cruise season is quickly drawing to a close; like the year itself, river cruising typically halts in January for a three-month hiatus before resuming in March. The crew of the Viking Forseti<\/em> surprises me; although the end is in sight, they seem as upbeat and fresh as if the season has only just begun.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Restaurant on Deck 2 serves up a full breakfast, while a continental breakfast is available in the Aquavit Lounge. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

In many ways, this has been the \u201cproving season\u201d for Viking\u2019s Chateaux, Rivers & Wine<\/em> itinerary. With no prior experience in the region, Viking has subtly tweaked each successive sailing a little based on feedback from their guests. What\u2019s more, everyone I have spoken to onboard here seems to have travelled here for two reasons: one, they love Viking. My uneducated mathematical reference is that over three-quarters of the guests onboard are past Viking guests, based on those that raised their hands at last night\u2019s briefing in the lounge. The other reason most guests are here is because they want to see more of France, or they love wine, or they\u2019re simply tired of doing the Danube and Rhine.<\/p>\n

\"Setting<\/a>

Setting out on our adventure: Viking Forseti Group B arrives at Chateau Giscours for a wine tasting. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

This afternoon, we got our first taste \u2013 literally \u2013 of just how unique this itinerary really is. For all guests onboard the Viking Forseti<\/em>, Viking offered up a one-of-a-kind shore excursion that would span over seven hours and would continue going once we\u2019d re-boarded our ship in Pauillac.<\/p>\n

Guests were divided up into four groups (A, B, C and D) for an afternoon visit to a local Chateau to sample their wines. Each group visits a different Chateau in order to keep things intimate and manageable. Then, all guests would reconvene at Chateau Kirwan<\/strong> for an included dinner served by Viking Forseti<\/em>\u2019s own talented restaurant staff.<\/p>\n

\"Chateau<\/a>

Chateau Giscours. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

This was no ordinary excursion; Viking always provides high-quality tours ashore, but our adventure this afternoon really went to a level I\u2019ve never seen from the line before. Designed exclusively for Viking guests, the wine tasting and dinner at Chateau Kirwan reminded me of the kinds of exclusive touring events that tour and river cruise operator Tauck<\/strong> likes to package with their itineraries; the exception being that Tauck\u2019s river cruises go for double the price of admission on Viking.<\/p>\n

\"Our<\/a>

Our local guide explained the history of the Chateau and the wine-producing regions that make up the prestigious “Grand Cru” classification. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

The entire event an absolute wine-lover\u2019s paradise. Even if you\u2019re not into wines or not big on them, I\u2019d urge you to not miss out on this \u2013 it is stunning, and the wealth of knowledge you gain is amazingly vast. If you don\u2019t want to swallow the wine, you can spit it out into a spit bucket (but let\u2019s be honest: few actually did that!)<\/p>\n

After leaving Pauillac, our coach took us to Chateau Giscours<\/strong> \u2013 one of the vineyards certified in 1855 as a Grand Cru Classe \u2013 Margaux<\/em>. Here, we were led on a tour of the picturesque property before heading into the tasting room to sample three different wines: Chateau Giscours 2009; La Sirene de Giscours \u2013 Second vin \u2013 2009; <\/em>and the 2011 Chateau Duthil \u2013 Cru Bourgeois<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"Inside<\/a>

Inside the production facility…Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"...and<\/a>

…and the gorgeous end result. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

If you don\u2019t know exactly what those mean, don\u2019t worry: that\u2019s the entire point of this excursion: to discover the region\u2019s famous wines. And, perhaps, bring a bottle home to enjoy! Here\u2019s some fair warning: my favorite wine was, of course, the most expensive. Once you\u2019ve had the best, you don\u2019t need the rest.<\/p>\n

\"In<\/a>

In this part of France, vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Can<\/a>

Can you believe no one lives here? An entire Chateau, empty except for a skeleton crew of caretakers. I’d move in! This spawned a constant running joke: could there be chateau squatters? Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"If<\/a>

If there’s a problem with this part of France, it’s that it might actually be too attractive in the fall. The colours are fabulous. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

The excursion would have been amazing with just the wine tasting alone, but it was our evening dinner at the grand Chateau Kirwan that really created an experience to remember. A few times during dinner I had to remind myself that this was not something put on by Silversea or Hapag-Lloyd or Tauck; this was created by Viking for Viking\u2019s guests. That they\u2019re not charging a hundred Euros per head for this event is simply amazing.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The sublime setting of our dinner at Chateau Kirwan. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"...and<\/a>

…and of course, plenty of vin rouge et blanc. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Perhaps more importantly, the restaurant and hotel staff of the Viking Forseti<\/em> were standing outside the amber-lit entrance to the grand Chateau to welcome guests in as they arrived on their respective coaches at dusk. You get a real sense that the crew love this every bit as much as the guests; to be together, even off the ship, is a truly special experience.<\/p>\n

\"Calling<\/a>

Calling our meal tonight ‘dinner’ is a misnomer; it was an absolute feast. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Our menu du jour \u2013 23 Novembre 2014<\/em>:<\/p>\n

Soupe<\/em><\/p>\n

TOURIN A L\u2019AIL BORDELAIS<\/p>\n

Traditional Bordeaux sweet onion & garlic soup in Puff Pastry<\/p>\n

Le Vin: Signature<\/em><\/p>\n

Salade<\/em><\/p>\n

SALADE DES VENDANGES<\/p>\n

Seasonal greens with harvest grapes, cured duck breast, duck confit, sour cream dressing<\/p>\n

Le Vin: Chateau Kirwan 2009<\/em><\/p>\n

Plat Principal<\/em><\/p>\n

FILET MIGNON DE VEAU, SAUCE CHAMPIGNONS, GAMBAS A\u2019LA PROVENCALE<\/p>\n

Veal tenderloin with mushroom sauce, shrimp Provencale, steamed asparagus, baby carrots, potato gratin<\/p>\n

Le Vin: Chateau Kirwan 2004<\/em><\/p>\n

Dessert<\/em><\/p>\n

VIENNETTA DE CHOCOLAT AUX FIGS A\u2019LA SAUCE DE CASSIS, VIGNE ROUGE CR\u00c8ME GLACEE<\/p>\n

Chocolate vinetta with figs in black currant sauce, red vine ice cream<\/p>\n

Assiette de Fromages<\/em><\/p>\n

Join us back onboard for a selection of local cheeses and fine wines after dinner in the Aquavit Terrace.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Dinner was, to say the least, sublime. One of the top meals I\u2019ve ever had. The wines were exceptional, too. As I\u2019ve said before, my knowledge of wines and winemaking is cursory at best. But you don\u2019t have to be a sommelier-in-training to enjoy and appreciate the fine wines that were served tonight. Free-flowing, I might add.<\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

As fabulous as the wine and the food and the company was, the largest cheers were reserved for Hotel Manager Michael Stamm as he introduced, at Chateau Kirwan, the restaurant and galley staff of the Viking Forseti<\/em>. Mere seconds passed before the entire room leapt to their feet with thunderous applause.<\/p>\n

\"Toasting<\/a>

Toasting Viking Forseti’s talented chefs and restaurant servers. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Just<\/a>

Just when you think it can’t get any better: wine and wine ice cream that was to-die-for. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Back onboard Viking Forseti<\/em>, huge spreads of fine cheeses were laid out in the Aquavit Lounge, served with \u2013 naturally \u2013 more wine. C\u2019est super! <\/em>And what do you do with all of this? You do as the French do. You enjoy life. As much as I love the big megaship ocean liners, this is why I am always harping on about things like rock climbing walls and bumper car arenas at sea: you just don\u2019t need it. You need good food, great wines, and excellent company. Tonight, guests aboard the Viking Forseti <\/em>had that and then some.<\/p>\n

\"Back<\/a>

Back onboard: cheese spreads laid out in the Aquavit Terrace. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

With this dinner, served up right out of the gate on their newest itinerary, Viking is once again raising the bar even higher when it comes to offering their guests something truly out of the ordinary. They could have charged for it, sure. They could have not even offered it. Instead, they overcame the logistical hurdles of hosting this dinner each and every Sunday for nine months and made it into something unexpected and extraordinary.<\/p>\n

I don\u2019t know how they do it \u2013 but even after having taken so many different voyages with them, Viking has managed to wow me. They haven\u2019t just created a great cruise itinerary; they\u2019ve created an experience in the truest sense of the word.<\/p>\n

Personally, today will live on in my memory as something very special.<\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Our full journey:<\/p>\n

\"Illustration<\/a>

Illustration courtesy of Viking River Cruises.<\/p><\/div>\n

Viking Forseti - Chateaux, Rivers and Wine In Bordeaux<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t
DAY<\/B><\/th>PORT<\/B><\/th>ACTIVITIES<\/B><\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
November 22, 2014<\/a><\/td>Bordeaux, France<\/td>Arrival; free time.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
November 23<\/a><\/td>Gironde River \/ Pauillac, France<\/td>Scenic Cruising \/ Medoc and Margaux wine country visit; wine tasting & evening at leisure<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
November 24<\/a><\/td>Blaye, France<\/td>Tour of Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage site; afternoon free time or optional excursion to Cognac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
November 25<\/a><\/td>Libourne, France<\/td>Tour of Saint-Emilion, a UNESCO World Heritage Site & Pomerol wine region; afternoon at leisure or optional excursion to Bergerac<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
November 26<\/a><\/td>Garonne River \/ Cadillac, France<\/td>Scenic Cruising \/ Excursion to Sauternes wine region & wine tasting<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
November 27<\/a><\/td>Cadillac, France \/ Bordeaux, France<\/td>Morning city tour \/ evening at leisure in Bordeaux<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
November 28<\/a><\/td>Bordeaux, France<\/td>Tour of city center, a UNESCO World Heritage site; afternoon at leisure<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
November 29, 2014<\/a><\/td>Bordeaux, France<\/td>Disembark Viking Forseti; flight to Budapest, Hungary for the start of our next Live Voyage Report!<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Joie de Vivre – The Joy Of Life \u201cOne should always be drunk. That\u2019s all that matters\u2026but with what? With wine, with poetry, or with virtue, as you choose. But get drunk.\u201d – Charles Baudelaire Aaron Saunders, Live Voyage Reports November 23, 2014 Our first full day aboard Viking River Cruises\u2019 Viking Forseti began on […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":7237,"parent":21106,"menu_order":1,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/21109"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=21109"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/21109\/revisions"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/21106"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=21109"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}