{"id":3360,"date":"2014-04-11T10:08:38","date_gmt":"2014-04-11T10:08:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/livevoyagereports.com\/?page_id=3360"},"modified":"2016-06-29T08:11:33","modified_gmt":"2016-06-29T14:11:33","slug":"day-4-arnhem-nijmegen","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/live-voyage-reports\/taucks-ms-inspire-belgium-holland\/day-4-arnhem-nijmegen\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 4 – Arnhem & Nijmegen"},"content":{"rendered":"

The Battle of Arnhem and an evening in Nijmegen with Tauck<\/h3>\n
\"A<\/a>

A moving day at the Airborne Cemetery in Arnhem, Netherlands with Tauck today. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Aaron Saunders, Live Voyage Reports<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

This morning, those of us aboard Tauck<\/b>\u2019s new ms Inspire<\/i><\/b> <\/b>were able to kick back and enjoy an unexpected second cup of coffee. Owing to heavy congestion at the locks in our path, our arrival into the Dutch city of Arnhem was delayed from 9:00a.m. to 9:45a.m..<\/p>\n

However, this had no impact on our touring schedule, other than putting it slightly behind. But Tauck Cruise Director Steve kept everyone constantly appraised of the situation, particularly as it became apparent that, after 20 minutes of waiting, we\u2019d be stopped at the lock for a long time.<\/p>\n

\"Rolling<\/a>

Rolling down the Rhine aboard Tauck’s sleek new ms Inspire. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"The<\/a>

The traditional bell aboard Tauck’s ms Inspire gleams as we sail along the Rhine. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Once we cleared it, however, Arnhem was an easy five minutes away. We came alongside, the coaches reversed down the pier (an impressive move I first saw Tauck perform in Regensburg a few years ago) and pulled up next to the ship. Another fifteen minutes, and we were on our way.<\/p>\n

To understand Arnhem and the Battle of Arnhem \u2013 which was the basis for the movie A Bridge Too Far<\/i> \u2013 here\u2019s the situation, summarized: in 1944, the Allies were searching for a route that would allow them to continue their aggressive expansion east and into the heart of Germany. The solution was Operation Market Garden<\/b>, which was put into effect on 17 September 1944.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Airborne Cemetery houses thousands of British and Canadian citizens who died during the Battle of Arnhem in 1944. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

The battle was not a success. British and Canadian forces were overwhelmed by the unusually-strong German response, and the majority of divisions were never able to fight their way out of the Arnhem city limits. Inadequate intelligence had led the British to believe the operation would be a cakewalk, when in fact the Dutch Resistance had been warning of a strong German presence in and around Arnhem.<\/p>\n

By Monday, 25 September 1944, a rescue mission was underway.<\/p>\n

\"Schoolchildren<\/a>

Schoolchildren visit the Airborne Cemetery in Arnhem. It’s nice to see new generations learning about events that took place 70 years ago this year. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Despite its historical importance, Arnhem today has the appearance of a town ravaged by the economic downturn. Vacant businesses with \u201cFor Lease\u201d and \u201cFor Sale\u201d signs litter the downtown district, and graffiti is everywhere. Some of the graffiti is very politically motivated, questioning everything from the recession to the rampant increase in immigration that has proven problematic for many European countries.<\/p>\n

Our first stop of the day was the Arnhem Oosterbeek War Cemetery<\/b>, or more simply, the Airborne Cemetery<\/b>. Here, 1759 graves from those who died in the Battle of Arnhem<\/b> are buried, including 1392 servicemen from the United Kingdom; 73 from Poland; 32 from Canada; six from the Netherlands; and four from both Australia and New Zealand.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The grave marker of a deceased Canadian. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

There is also a single American buried at the Airborne Cemetery; in fact, the remains of Allied and German forces who perished in the battle are still being found to this day.<\/p>\n

The saddest thing ever was a note, its ink partially erased by the rain, left on the grave of a 27-year old from England. It began with the word \u2018Dad:\u201d and included the sentence \u201cI\u2019ve brought your great-grandchildren to see you.\u201d Below the note was an English-style Poppy, typically worn on clothing during the run-up to Remembrance Day on November 11.<\/p>\n

Seventy years have passed since these men died, yet their legacies are still being remembered and honoured to this day.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Airborne Museum is located in the former Hotel Hartenstein. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"The<\/a>

The modern facade of the entrance lobby of the Airborne Museum in Oosterbeek. The tank out front is a Canadian one. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

From the Airborne Cemetery, a quick ten-minute drive brought us to the Airborne Museum<\/b> located in the nearby town of Oosterbeek.<\/p>\n

Located in the former Hotel Hartenstein<\/b> which served as a command headquarters during the Battle of Arnhem, a visit to the Airborne Museum is a real education. The two upper floors of the museum showcase the hotel\u2019s original splendour, interspersed with artifacts that range from medals to letters to weapons and every kind of equipment imaginable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>

A moving letter from a King’s Cross recipient, noting, “I alone am responsible for their deaths.” Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

In one display case, a crisp, white doctor\u2019s overcoat is still smeared with blood. In another, a Military Cross recipient includes his medal along with a note explaining why he is returning it, and alluding to the guilt he continues to feel over the death of his men.<\/p>\n

But it is what is in the basement that makes the Airborne Museum so impactful. Deep beneath the surface of the museum, a series of interactive exhibits recreate what the Battle of Arnhem was like. Through the use of movie clips, lights, directional sounds, and rebuilt \u201csets\u201d, the Airborne Experience puts you in the heart of a bomber flying over the Dutch countryside, or walking through the remains of a bombed-out village.<\/p>\n

\"In<\/a>

In the basement of the Airborne Museum, an interactive experience does a frightening job of simulating bombed-out towns and the horrors of war. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

In one exhibit, a car sits amidst the rubble.The passenger door has been flung open, its occupant having long since fled. It took me a few moments, but in the rare flashes of strobe light that illuminated the room, tufts of long blonde hair can be seen emerging from the shattered rear window. The silhouette of a girl inside the car, dead, brings home the horrors of war. And in that instant, it became real for me.<\/p>\n

Outside the museum, the following quote is etched into a beautiful monument that was unveiled in 1994:<\/p>\n

\u201cTo the People of Gelderland: 50 years ago, British and Polish Airborne soldiers fought here against overwhelming odds to open the way into Germany and bring the war to an early end. Instead, we brought death and destruction for which you have never blamed us. This stone marks our admiration for your great courage remembering especially the women who tended our wounded. In the long winter that followed your families risked death by hiding Allied soldiers and Airmen while members of the resistance led many to safety.”<\/i><\/p>\n

\"2014<\/a>

2014 or 1944? Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

On our return drive to the ship, Tauck Director Zsophia gave us a briefing on what will be happening tomorrow in Rotterdam. Guests will have the choice to explore Rotterdam on their own, participate in a comprehensive city tour, or enjoy an outing to Delft. We were also told about our late-afternoon journey to Ypres, Belgium on Sunday for an exclusive dinner at the In Flander\u2019s Fields Museum. She was very forthright in explaining that the museum is a two-hour drive away, but stressed that it would be worth the effort on this, the centenary of the start of World War I.<\/p>\n

In order to make this a reality, all guests had to do was list their preferences for Rotterdam to her, and whether or not they would attend the dinner in Ypres, and she made a note of it on a very official-looking spreadsheet. Couldn\u2019t be easier!<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Rhine is a very busy river, and an afternoon of scenic cruising makes for some excellent ship-spotting activities. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

In the afternoon, we had our first real taste of scenic cruising along the Rhine as we traveled from Arnhem to Nijmegen<\/b> (nye\u00ad-<\/i>meghan). With no wind to speak of and pleasant temperatures, scenic cruising was enjoyed by many on the ms Inspire<\/i>\u2019s upper Sun Deck. There\u2019s substantially more seating options here than there are aboard Tauck\u2019s other vessels \u2013 a trend I hope continues aboard the new ms Savor<\/i> when she launches in June.<\/p>\n

Of course, after standing up on deck for about ten minutes, I strolled back down to my Loft Stateroom, opened the blinds and electronically slid the window up, and enjoyed an espresso made with the in-room Nespresso podded coffee maker along with the freshness of the Rhine from the comfort of my own stateroom.<\/p>\n

\"Looking<\/a>

Looking back at the ms Inspire’s Navigation Bridge. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Just after four p.m. we came alongside in Nijmegen, where the city is still reconstructing the pier apron area. It\u2019s in a bit of a shambles at the moment, but once again, Tauck was prepared, rigging the gangway to the ship\u2019s Sun Deck to compensate for the height difference.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Reception Lobby aboard Tauck’s new ms Inspire resembles the line’s previous vessels – and that’s a good thing. The Tour Desk and Reception areas are both here. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

To familiarize guests with Nijmegen \u2013 where we would be docked until Midnight \u2013 our Tauck Directors held two separate tours. The first one would visit the city\u2019s unique Bicycle Museum, while the other would be an orientation walking tour of the small Old Town section of Nijmegen that wasn\u2019t destroyed by bombers during World War II.<\/p>\n

\"Although<\/a>

Although Nijmegen suffered terribly during World War II, parts of the historic town center still survive. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Or, like I chose to do, guests could set off on their own for some self-guided exploration of Nijmegen. Don\u2019t know where you\u2019re doing? Not a problem \u2013 Tauck prints beautiful street maps up for every port of call we stop at, all of which are available on Tauck Cruise Director Steve\u2019s desk in the Reception Area.<\/p>\n

In many ways, this is what I love most about Tauck and river cruising in general: if you want to participate in the guided tours \u2013 no matter what your interest level \u2013 you\u2019re welcomed with open arms. If your idea of a great time is doing your own thing (or if, like some guests, you\u2019ve been to a particular port before), then self-guided exploration is always a possibility.<\/p>\n

\"Some<\/a>

Some of the oldest buildings in Nijmegen. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Nijmegen proved to be a very pretty, interesting port of call. There\u2019s some stunning medieval architecture that has survived the worst of World War II, and the city\u2019s main shopping and bar district is steps away from the river cruise pier, which is at the moment undergoing a significant refit.<\/p>\n

On a hot summer\u2019s day, the squares would be bustling with people enjoying a goblet of their favorite beer. Even as dusk fell on the city, people young and old were sitting outside, enjoying a bier<\/i>. Nijmegen is a very \u2018young\u2019 city \u2013 the vast majority of people here seemed to be in their twenties or thirties.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The local cafe and beer scene is alive and well. Our Tauck Guides offered up sugggestions to guests as to where they should enjoy a nice pint of Dutch (or, let’s face it, Belgian) beer. And because they’re not on commission, their recommendations are always unbiased. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Back onboard the ms Inspire<\/i>, guests could dine anytime between 6 p.m. and 8 p.m., with whomever they want. I absolutely love the flexible dinner times. Some evenings, I\u2019ve ambled down to the dining room closer to six, while tonight I was pushing half-past-seven before I finally strolled down. I wasn\u2019t alone; guests kept slowly trickling down until almost the last moment. The Lounge, it would appear, is an increasingly-popular spot for a pre-dinner cocktail.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Dutch fascination with cycling continues. I wish more countries were as bicycle-friendly as the Netherlands. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Window<\/a>

Window displays in many European cities are universally creative, but some in Nijmegen – like this one – take the cake for originality. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Tonight, I\u2019m excited about what lies ahead tomorrow in Rotterdam, and for our stunning dinner in Ypres at the In Flanders Fields museum on Sunday. This is the sort of event where Tauck really shines, and it was moments like this that made such an impact on me when I sailed the line\u2019s Danube itinerary two years ago.<\/p>\n

I\u2019d sit on the coach for double the length of time if it meant I got to participate in something so unique!<\/p>\n

\"I<\/a>

I agree. This could almost be Tauck’s unofficial slogan. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Tauck's MS Inspire - Belgium & Holland<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t
DAY<\/B><\/td>PORT<\/B><\/td>ACTIVITIES<\/B><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
April 7, 2014<\/a><\/td>Amsterdam, Netherlands<\/td>Arrive Amsterdam; Embark Tauck's new ms Inspire<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
April 8<\/a><\/td>Amsterdam, Netherlands<\/td>Private river cruise through Amsterdam's Canals; visit the Rijksmuseum; tour Keukenhof Gardens<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
April 9<\/a><\/td>Hoorn, Netherlands \/ Enkhuizen, Netherlands<\/td>Walking tour of Hoorn or visit to Alkmaar. Walking tour of Enkhuizen & open-air Zuiderzee Museum.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
April 10<\/a><\/td>Arnhem, Netherlands<\/td>Choice of tours - De Hoge Veluwe National Park exploration with Vincent Van Gogh at the Kroller-Muller Museum, or tour sites associated with the WWII airborne assault on Arnhem. <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
April 11<\/a><\/td>Rotterdam, Netherlands<\/td>Tour of Rotterdam & its museums, or optional excursion to the historic city of Delft. <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
April 12<\/a><\/td>Veere, Netherlands \/ Middleburg, Netherlands. <\/td>Exploration of Veere or excursion to Neeltje Jans Delta Works to learn about the country's storm surge barriers. In Middleburg, enjoy time exploring on own.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
April 13<\/a><\/td>Antwerp, Belgium \/ Ypres<\/td>Orientation walking tour through Antwerp's historic city center & visit the Red Star Line museum. After lunch, Tauck Exclusive tour to Flanders to observe the centennial of World War I with dinner and a private visit to the In Flanders Fields museum. <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
April 14<\/a><\/td>Antwerp, Belgium \/ Hasselt, Belgium \/ Maastricht, Netherlands<\/td>Drive to Margraten to see the Netherlands American Cemetery. Tauck Exclusive Lunch at Chateau Neercanne, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Guided visit to Maastricht & free time in the Old Town.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
April 15<\/a><\/td>Brussels, Belgium<\/td>Disembark ms Inspire & travel to Brussels for a full day of sightseeing. Overnight at the Hotel Amigo.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
April 16<\/td>Brussels, Belgium<\/td>Onward journey home.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n