{"id":5303,"date":"2014-07-04T17:50:23","date_gmt":"2014-07-04T17:50:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/avidcruiser.com\/livevoyagereports\/?page_id=5303"},"modified":"2016-06-29T08:11:32","modified_gmt":"2016-06-29T14:11:32","slug":"day-3-bratislava","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/live-voyage-reports\/emerald-waterways-emerald-sky-budapest-nuremberg\/day-3-bratislava\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 3 – Bratislava"},"content":{"rendered":"

Slovakia Two Ways with Emerald Cruises<\/h3>\n
\"Today,<\/a>

Today, we were treated to a tour of the Slovakian city of Bratislava, along with a special excursion to see how local families live in towns outside the city. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Aaron Saunders, Live Voyage Reports<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Emerald Cruises<\/strong>\u2019 Emerald Star <\/em><\/strong>continued her weeklong Danube Delights <\/em>itinerary this morning as we arrived in our second country \u2013 and second capital city \u2013 of the trip. Today, we\u2019d explore Bratislava, Slovakia<\/strong> in two ways: first, with an orientating walking tour of the historic city center, and then with a visit to a local village in the afternoon for a look into the life of an average Slovakian. The latter is part of Emerald Cruises\u2019 complimentary EmeraldPlus<\/strong> excursions that are designed to provide culturally-enriching experiences ashore.<\/p>\n

\"Things<\/a>

Things started off foggy today…Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"...but<\/a>

…but the Danube was immensely peaceful when this shot was taken at 0530. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Up until 1919, Bratislava was known as Pressburg<\/strong>. Today, it is the only national capital that literally borders two independent countries; in this case, Austria and Hungary. Its current name is also a lot of fun to say: Brat-ees-lava.<\/em> Bonus points if you can roll the initial \u2018r\u2019 like the locals do. Bratislava is located between kilometres 1862 to 1874 along the Danube, where kilometre zero is situated near the Black Sea.<\/p>\n

\"Emerald<\/a>

Emerald Star’s picturesque Atrium, seen from Deck 3 this morning. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

You\u2019ll hear about Velvet a lot in the history of Bratislava \u2013 but not in the Stanford White, Red Velvet Swing kind of way. Submerged in the communist regime of the Eastern Bloc, the citizens of Bratislava were among the first to anticipate the fall of Communism and the start of the Velvet Revolution in 1989<\/a>. In 1993, Bratislava became the new capital of Slovakia following the Velvet Divorce<\/a> that resulted in the dissolution of Czechoslovakia. This created the countries of Slovakia and the Czech Republic that exist today.<\/p>\n

\"Our<\/a>

Our local guide took us on a fantastic walking tour through the heart of Bratislava before turning us loose on the town for some free time. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Quietvox-esque<\/a>

Quietvox-esque wireless receivers allow us to keep in contact with our guide, even if we wander off. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

It\u2019s hard to imagine in 2014, but this cruise that we\u2019re on simply would not have been possible 25 years ago. On my first visit here in 2012, one local told of how simply crossing the bridge that spans the Danube \u2013 which leads to neighbouring Austria \u2013 would have been reason enough to be shot prior to 1989.<\/p>\n

\"Bratislava's<\/a>

Bratislava’s ornate Opera House. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Today\u2019s Bratislava is far more lighthearted \u2013 and, if you\u2019re a movie lover, absolutely nothing like the city depicted in the 2005 Eli Roth horror film Hostel<\/em>, which caused vocal condemnation by the Slovakian government over the film and its inaccurate depiction of Bratislava as a dangerous, murderous town. Interestingly, the film wasn\u2019t even shot here; it was lensed in the Sleeping Beauty-<\/em>esque town of Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic that guests will have the chance to visit in a few days\u2019 time.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The streets of Bratislava are fabulously picturesque. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

At 0900, our walking tour of Bratislava departed the Emerald Star<\/em>. Guests could pick any one of five groups to join, with the fifth group being geared exclusively for gentle walkers who want to move at a more relaxed pace.<\/p>\n

I chose to join Group 4, based solely on the highly scientific principal that it was the first one I saw as I disembarked the Emerald Star<\/em>. I was last in Bratislava about a year and a half ago, and truthfully didn\u2019t need to take the walking tour, but I was eager to see how Emerald Cruises handled their excursions.<\/p>\n

\"Market<\/a>

Market stalls sprang up in the late morning. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

In truth, their excursions and guides are as good as any other line. Our guide was knowledgeable and informative, and though she stuck to the same route through town that I experienced on my previous visit to Bratislava, she hit all the right notes and even imparted a larger degree of history on us.<\/p>\n

\"Street<\/a>

Street corner cafes are around every turn in Bratislava. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

After the tour, we were welcomed to enjoy Bratislava on our own, or head back to the ship for lunch. I wanted to explore the city, so I opted to stay in town and quickly found myself an outdoor caf\u00e9 called the Green Tree Caffe <\/strong>to sit and relax in. I ordered a Spiced Chai Latte \u2013 for the rock-bottom price of \u20ac1.90, including tax.<\/p>\n

After 30 minutes of caffeinated people watching just adjacent to Michael\u2019s Gate \u2013 which dates back to the 13th<\/sup> Century – I decided it was time to shuffle on. Some photos of my morning in Bratislava:<\/p>\n

\"I<\/a>

I found this fabulous cafe…Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"...and<\/a>

…and sat down to have a coffee. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Around Noon, I thought about heading back to the Emerald Star<\/em> at her berth to enjoy lunch. As good as the food onboard is, I had to try some local Slovakian food, so I found myself sitting on the patio of a pub called Slang Pub<\/strong>, on Bratislava\u2019 s tree-and-fountain-lined Einsteinova <\/em>street, at Einsteinova 23<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"Dozens<\/a>

Dozens of pubs and restaurants line this attractive pedestrian zone. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

I ordered a pint of the local beer, Zlaty Bazant, <\/em>and a Slovakian specialty known as bryndzove halusky<\/em>, which is described as being \u2018dumpling-like.\u2019 I actually think it is closer to German Spatzle, <\/em>but it comes on a plate with sauerkraut and bacon bits. At \u20ac3.99, I was expecting something appetizer-sized. Instead, my dish was twice as large as I thought it would be. It was also spectacularly tasty<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Total cost of my large beer with an equally large lunch: \u20ac5.88. Even with the exchange rate of $1.44 to the Canadian Dollar, that\u2019s still a steal of a deal even in my native currency. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of enjoying a few select meals ashore; it gives you an appreciation for the richness of their culture and their traditional delicacies.<\/p>\n

\"Traditional<\/a>

Traditional Slovakian Lunch – and all under six Euros! Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Coming back onboard at 13:00, I brewed myself a fresh Caf\u00e9 Latte from the wondermachine<\/em> in the Lounge to keep my energy up for my next adventure: our inland journey this afternoon to visit a real Slovakian family<\/p>\n

Our EmeraldPlus excursion this afternoon departed the Emerald Star<\/em> at 14:30. Four coaches were parked adjacent to the pier in Bratislava, waiting to whisk us to the small village of Senkvice<\/strong>, approximately 40 minutes to the north. From there, each coach was split up into groups of 10. Each of those groups of 10 would go to a separate private residence for an afternoon with a local family.<\/p>\n

\"Getting<\/a>

Getting around in Bratislava is easy thanks to handy directional signs. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"This<\/a>

This afternoon, however, we visited a traditional Hungarian home in a small village just northeast of Bratislava. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Our host for the afternoon was Ella. She\u2019s lived in Slovakia all her life, and remembers well how things were under the Communist regime. But she doesn\u2019t speak unkindly about it; in fact, the said that in many respects, locals found it easier under Communism because they knew where they stood: they had a job, they had a house, and they had a purpose. Perhaps it wasn\u2019t what they wanted, but they had security.<\/p>\n

\"Our<\/a>

Our Slovakian host, Ella. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Removed of the communist security blanket in the 1990\u2019s, many folks suddenly found themselves paralyzed with fear: the fear of making the wrong decision. When you spend the better part of your adult life being told <\/em>what to do, suddenly having options can be a dangerous thing. Now, that\u2019s not to say that Ella wanted Slovakia to return to Communism \u2013 far from it. But it was interesting for me as a North American to hear, because the only thing we really hear about Communism can be summed up as: Communism bad. No one really looks at the ramifications of undoing that system.<\/p>\n

\"We<\/a>

We learned how to make a traditional Slovakian delicacy normally enjoyed at Christmas time. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"When<\/a>

When finished, it comes out as a wafer. Delicious! Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

On our visit, we got to try out hand at making a traditional Christmas delicacy that is typically enjoyed on December 24. Which I found particularly interesting, as I\u2019ll be back in Bratislava in December for the Christmas Markets. Made with sugar, flour, vanilla and cinnamon, the batter is poured atop a griddle and then pressed to create an oversized wafer that can be enjoyed as-is, or rolled with or without filling.<\/p>\n

\"Afterwards,<\/a>

Afterwards, we enjoyed homemade cake (also delicious!) and coffee. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"The<\/a>

The family cat also enjoyed plenty of attention! Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

I did alright \u2013 I wasn\u2019t great, but I didn\u2019t suck either. I don\u2019t suspect I\u2019ll quit my day job, though. Ella says that she can do up to 80 of these \u2013 perfectly \u2013 in a single hour. The ten of us on the tour did two or three barely passable ones apiece, and it took us 40 minutes! I doubt we\u2019ll quit our day jobs any time soon.<\/p>\n

After that, we enjoyed homemade chocolate cake and fresh coffee and tea in her backyard. It was one of the most interesting experiences I think I\u2019ve had anywhere. She spoke very little English, and we spoke no Slovakian, but through our guide acting as our interpreter, we were able to communicate, ask questions, and generally enjoy ourselves.<\/p>\n

\"We<\/a>

We bid Ella farewell and boarded the coach to return to the Emerald Star. It was a fascinating excursion, and everyone onboard the ship had different experiences to share. Some groups even enjoyed a wine tasting! Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Two huge positives: one, groups are intimate and split up. This would never work if you put the entire coach complement in a single place. Two: it gives guests a look at how locals live and what their traditions are. For example, Slovakians don\u2019t eat turkey at Christmas; they eat fish instead.<\/p>\n

The verdict on the EmeraldPlus excursion? I absolutely loved it. This is one of Emerald Cruises\u2019 most compelling features, and something I wish other lines would do more of. That these are offered complimentary \u2013 particularly when there\u2019s a 40-minute coach ride in each direction involved \u2013 speaks highly of the line\u2019s dedication to providing interesting and different experiences ashore.<\/p>\n

\"Cruise<\/a>

Cruise Director Daniela teaches a basic German class in the Horizon Lounge. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Some<\/a>

Some good German beer helps, too. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Following our tour, our Cruise Director Daniela held an informal German Language class in the Horizon Lounge, followed by our briefing about our day ahead in Vienna tomorrow. Dinner in the Reflections Restaurant followed, and though the strange menu situation remained unchanged, the food was just as excellent as it was last night.<\/p>\n

\"Tonight,<\/a>

Tonight, I had the fillet of Cod with potato gnocchi. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"My<\/a>

My Panorama Balcony Suite at Dusk, prior to departure from Bratislava. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Our<\/a>

Our Captain guides Emerald Star away from Bratislava. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Bratislava<\/a>

Bratislava Fortress (Hrad) lit up at night. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

This evening, we set sail from Bratislava under a darkening sky as the last embers of daylight faded from sight. While it was still dusk out, we passed a veritable conga line of river cruise ships headed eastbound. There\u2019s something beautiful about river cruise ships all lit up at night passing by; one ship \u2013 TUI Maxima \u2013 <\/em>even honked their horn at us, and we responded in kind. We even sailed past our pseudo fleetmate, Scenic Diamond<\/em>, one of Emerald Cruises\u2019 parent company Scenic Cruises<\/strong>\u2019 \u201cSpace Ships.\u201d<\/p>\n

One interesting thing I notice when I step out on-deck to watch the other river cruise ships sail past: their lounges are largely devoid of people, even though it\u2019s only just after 22:00 (or 10p.m.) as I write this. That’s not the case here: ours is still packed with people enjoying the evening!<\/p>\n

\"Guests<\/a>

Guests enjoy Emerald Star’s Movie Theater tonight, where “The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel” is being shown. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Tomorrow, Emerald Star<\/em> arrives in my absolute favorite city: Vienna, Austria<\/strong>. I\u2019ve been to Vienna four times before, but it\u2019s one of those places that I feel oddly \u2013 and intimately \u2013 connected to. The real challenge, then, will be simply falling asleep tonight. On my very first river cruise three years ago, I had the feeling on the first few days that I couldn\u2019t sleep, or I would miss something. As I write this, we\u2019re sailing past a cute little town on our starboard side. There\u2019s a river cruise ship passing us on our port side. With so much to see and do, river cruising is unlike any other vacation you can take.<\/p>\n

They may be new, but Emerald Cruises is doing a fine job of living up to that expectation.<\/p>\n

\"Sailing<\/a>

Sailing the Danube, Emerald Cruises-style. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Emerald Cruises, Budapest to Nuremberg<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t
DAY<\/B><\/td>PORT<\/B><\/td>ACTIVITIES<\/B><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Saturday, July 12, 2014<\/a><\/td>Budapest, Hungary<\/td>Embark Emerald Cruises' Emerald Star<\/i> in Budapest; Welcome Aboard Dinner<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Sunday, July 13<\/a><\/td>Budapest, Hungary<\/td>Guided tour of Budapest including Fisherman's Bastion and Castle Hill<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Monday, July 14<\/a><\/td>Bratislava, Slovakia<\/td>Old Town walking tour; EmeraldPlus excursion for tea with a local Slovakian family<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Tuesday, July 15<\/a><\/td>Vienna, Austria<\/td>Panoramic \"Ringstrasse\" tour of Vienna; free time and optional Schonbrunn Palace Tour and Viennese concert. <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Wednesday, July 16<\/a><\/td>Vienna \/ Durnstein \/ Melk, Austria<\/td>Guided tour of Melk Abbey; guided tour of Durnstein<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Thursday, July 17<\/a><\/td>Linz, Austria \/ Passau, Germany<\/td>Walking tours & free time in Linz and Passau; Optional full-day tour to Salzburg, Austria<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Friday, July 18<\/a><\/td>Regensburg \/ Weltenburg, Germany<\/td>Guided tours of Regensburg & Weltenburg Abbey; optional traditional Bavarian entertainment excursion<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Saturday, July 19<\/a><\/td>Nuremberg, Germany<\/td>Disembark & onward journey home.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Slovakia Two Ways with Emerald Cruises Aaron Saunders, Live Voyage Reports Emerald Cruises\u2019 Emerald Star continued her weeklong Danube Delights itinerary this morning as we arrived in our second country \u2013 and second capital city \u2013 of the trip. Today, we\u2019d explore Bratislava, Slovakia in two ways: first, with an orientating walking tour of the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":5298,"parent":4839,"menu_order":2,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/5303"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5303"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/5303\/revisions"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4839"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5303"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}