{"id":5305,"date":"2014-07-04T17:51:37","date_gmt":"2014-07-04T17:51:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/avidcruiser.com\/livevoyagereports\/?page_id=5305"},"modified":"2018-08-26T15:33:45","modified_gmt":"2018-08-26T19:33:45","slug":"day-4-vienna","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/live-voyage-reports\/emerald-waterways-emerald-sky-budapest-nuremberg\/day-4-vienna\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 4 – Vienna"},"content":{"rendered":"

Vienna By Day and Night with Emerald Cruises<\/h3>\n
\"Hello<\/a>

Hello Vienna! Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Aaron Saunders, Live Voyage Reports<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Emerald Cruises<\/strong>\u2019 Emerald Star s<\/em><\/strong>ailed into Vienna this morning, marking our arrival to our third city and our third capital, not to mention our third UNESCO World Heritage Site on this trip.<\/p>\n

\"Emerald<\/a>

Emerald Cruises’ Emerald Star at her berth in Vienna. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

After breakfast, I began my day like I have every other morning: with a trip up to the Horizon Lounge for a Caf\u00e9 Latte. The automated coffee machine onboard Emerald Star<\/em> is nothing short of space-age; it makes six different kinds of drinks in three different cup sizes, caffeinated or decaffeinated, and it prepares them as well as any barista. This is no coin-operated syrup dispenser; this thing is the real deal, and more than one person I\u2019ve met has admitted to having a bit of a love affair with the machine\u2019s rejuvenating beverages.<\/p>\n

\"Emerald<\/a>

Emerald Star’s stunning coffee maker, located in the Horizon Lounge on the port side. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Today, Emerald Cruises included a Panoramic City Tour of Vienna, utilising four busses. Running from 0830 until 1230, it is part bus tour of Vienna\u2019s historic Ringstrasse<\/em> (ring road) that encircles the city, part walking tour, and part free time.<\/p>\n

Because the Danube doesn\u2019t flow through the core of Vienna, ships must dock approximately 20-30 minutes outside of town, and guests must be bussed to and from the city. Because most guests opted to take the tour this morning, there were no shuttle busses available to take independent guests into town, though the afternoon had no less than four departure times from the ship into Vienna.<\/p>\n

\"Guests<\/a>

Guests could also elect to take one of Emerald Cruises’ bicycles ashore in Vienna – complimentary. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Since I\u2019ve been to Vienna previously, I was eager to do my own thing today \u2013 and our docking location made that remarkably easy to do by taking the metro, or U-Bahn<\/em>. I talked to our Cruise Director, Daniela, to get the information on the exact location of the station and what line I should take, and she assured me it was super-easy \u2013 and it was indeed!<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re curious on how you can accomplish this, allow me to walk you through it:<\/p>\n

\"Vorgartenstrasse<\/a>

Vorgartenstrasse U-Bahn Station. This is actually the station you emerge from when returning from Vienna; to go into the city center, use the station across the street. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

From our docking location near St. Francis of Assisi Church<\/a>, it\u2019s about a 10-minute walk to the Vorgartenstrasse<\/strong><\/a> U-Bahn station (which will be listed as Vorgartenstra\u00dfe<\/em> on maps due to the special character in place of the double \u2018s\u2019). All U-Bahn stations are marked with a blue square with a \u2018U\u2019 character, making them easy to find on maps and in person.<\/p>\n

\"Take<\/a>

Take the U1 Line train four stops to Stephansplatz, and you’ll emerge in the heart of Vienna. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

To get to Stephansplatz<\/strong><\/a> in the heart of Vienna, take the U1 <\/strong>line<\/a> bound for Reumannplatz<\/strong> and get off after the fourth stop, not counting Vorgartenstrasse where you boarded. Announcements can be hard to hear, but most trains have digital displays announcing the next station. Alternately, you can get off one stop earlier at Schwedenplatz <\/strong><\/a>and be right on the Ringstrasse<\/em> next to the Altes Rathaus, one of the oldest buildings in Vienna.<\/p>\n

\"Signage<\/a>

Signage is well-posted in all stations. Pictured here is Stephansplatz Station. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Total time from boarding the U-Bahn to getting off: perhaps 10 minutes, at most. Total cost: just \u20ac2.20 for a single trip. Ticket machines are marked in red, and their text can be changed to English using a button located on the lower left corner of the screen. Purchase the number of tickets you require and, if you plan to use them immediately, have the machine validate them. Otherwise, validate your ticket using the small red boxes just prior to entering the track area.<\/p>\n

Vienna\u2019s traffic is legendary, and the U-Bahn subway is far faster than the bus. If you want to get in and get going \u2013 and feel like a local doing it \u2013 I highly recommend the subway as your mode of transportation for increased flexibility.<\/p>\n

\"My<\/a>

My first stop…Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"...coffee<\/a>

…coffee at Cafe Central. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

From Stephansplatz \u2013 in the shadow of the imposing (and still under extensive restoration work) St. Stephan\u2019s Cathedral<\/strong>, I made a beeline for Caf\u00e9 Central<\/strong>, one of my favorite Viennese hangouts. Apparently it was a favorite hangout for many noteworthy characters from history, including Sigmund Freud, Leo Trotsky, Vladimir Lenin<\/strong> and \u2013 eerily \u2013 Adolf Hitler<\/strong>, all of whom actually were patrons of the Caf\u00e9 a century ago. The Caf\u00e9 on Herrengasse 14<\/em> just a few blocks from the Hofburg Palace<\/strong> was so badly damaged after the Second World War that it did not re-open until 1982.<\/p>\n

I am a creature of habit, so I ordered my Wiener Melange <\/em>and a cup of plain yogurt that has become my go-to dish for a little light, late breakfast. Wiener Melange<\/em> is literally coffee with steamed milk, but it sounds a lot more elegant. Wiener<\/em>, of course, is derived from Wien<\/em> \u2013 which is how \u201cVienna\u201d is referred to in German.<\/p>\n

\"Opulence<\/a>

Opulence isn’t just confined to Vienna’s cafes; pictured here is the elegant (and hidden) Freyung Passage, half a block from Cafe Central. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Service is a bit uppity, but you can\u2019t be deterred \u2013 this is, after all, Vienna. People here are nice; they\u2019re just not outgoingly <\/em>nice. However, a few words of German and a genuine smile will go a long way \u2013 as will a lot of patience. Show the people you interact with that you know and love the Wien<\/em> they inhabit, and you won\u2019t go wrong.<\/p>\n

Afterwards, I finally got to do something I have wanted to do each time I\u2019ve visited this fantastic city: visit the Sigmund Freud Museum<\/strong> on Bergasse 19<\/em>, just a few blocks northeast of the University of Vienna.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Freud Museum is tucked away on the bottom of the hill on Bergasse 19. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

If you\u2019re looking to see Freud\u2019s famous therapy couch, you\u2019re out of luck: it\u2019s on exhibit in London. In fact, most of Freud\u2019s personal belongings ended up in London when he fled Austria and his Bergasse<\/em> practice in 1938. He left quickly, but not so quickly that he couldn\u2019t properly pack. A top-hat and a coat-hanger are some of the few things still in Vienna, along with a few pieces of furniture.<\/p>\n

\"Heading<\/a>

Heading up to Freud’s former residence and practice. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Still, the museum is well worth \u20ac9 admission just to briefly inhabit the same space where Freud practiced for 47 years, and where he came up with his theories on psychoanalytical thought. My visit was also surprisingly well-timed, as the museum was running a special exhibition on Freud\u2019s love of travel. I don\u2019t know much about psychoanalysis, but I do <\/em>know about travel!<\/p>\n

\"Freud's<\/a>

Freud’s eyeglasses. With the exception of a few artifacts, most of Freud’s possessions went with him to London in 1938 when he fled Austria.<\/p><\/div>\n

Initially, Freud feared travel. This was perhaps not surprising given the safety standard of the time in which he lived, particularly as it concerned rail travel. But Freud overcame his fears of travel and ended up visiting an extensive number of places for the time, including trips to the Mediterranean, Greece, Northern Europe, and even the United States.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Freud Museum Wien houses the largest collection of photographs and correspondence of Freud in the world. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Freud\u2019s last trip was an unhappy one: he was forced to flee to England, via Paris, in 1938, to escape the Nazi Anschluss<\/em><\/a> \u2013 or takeover of Austria \u2013 that had occurred in March of that year. A photograph shows Freud emerging from a taxi in London at the Hotel Esplanade after his arrival in England. He is hunched over and clasps his hands behind his back as he walks slowly forward. Within a year, Freud would be dead.<\/p>\n

Fortunately, Freud\u2019s work \u2013 and his residence in Vienna \u2013 lives on to this day, for all to see and learn about.<\/p>\n

\"Forced<\/a>

Forced To Flee: Freud’s last trip was an unhappy one, as the 1938 annexation of Austria by Germany forced Freud to escape to London via Paris. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

After my trip down the rabbit hole that is the psyche, I indulged my passion for good local food and beer with a trip to a caf\u00e9 on W\u00e4hringerstrasse<\/em> 6-8 called Caf\u00e9 Stein<\/strong>, almost literally across the street from the Votivkirche<\/em><\/a>, <\/em>a church constructed in 1879 at the request of Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, who wanted to honour Emperor Franz Joseph after an attempted assassination in 1853.<\/p>\n

\"Back<\/a>

Back on the streets of Vienna. I could have taken a tram, like this one, but I preferred to brave the heat and walk the streets. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Not<\/a>

Not far from the Freud Museum, I stumbled upon a Jewish memorial I hadn’t seen before, next to the Servitenkirche (Servite Church). My research tells me it was built as a memorial to those in Vienna’s 9th district who were forced out of their homes between 1938 and 1939. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

I didn\u2019t have any real plans to stop there, but ducked in just minutes after Noon because their outdoor patio looked so inviting. I had a dark Dunkel-style beer brewed right in Vienna, along with a Club Sandwich made of grilled chicken, tomatoes, and lettuce and accompanied with French fries and ketchup. Absolutely delicious lunch; perhaps not as inexpensive as yesterday\u2019s, but at \u20ac14 all-in, not bad either. I know it\u2019s hard to pass up the delicious food onboard Emerald Star<\/em>, but I really feel like eating at least the odd lunch locally really enhances your river cruise experience.<\/p>\n

\"Lunch<\/a>

Lunch at Cafe Stein. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

After lunch, the remainder of my afternoon was simply spent wandering the beautiful city of Vienna. This is one place that I just cannot get enough of. A few photos from my wandering:<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The 2014 Vienna Film Festival was being held in front of the Rathaus, or City Hall. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"The<\/a>

The night before, Disney’s classic masterpiece, Fantasia, had been shown here. That would have been great to see! Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Vienna's<\/a>

Vienna’s main shopping street – Kartnerstrasse – during the hot, July afternoon. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Stephansplatz.<\/a>

Stephansplatz. St. Stephan’s Cathedral is (under renovation) on the right. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

This evening, I went with some fellow guests to enjoy an evening out in Vienna, dining as the locals do. We ate Austrian Wiener Schnitzel, bratwurst, sauerkraut, and even deep-fried emmenthaler cheese. It was a fabulous way to spend our last few hours in Vienna before returning to the beautiful Emerald Star<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"Enjoying<\/a>

Enjoying local food – including homemade bratwurst and Austrian beer – ashore in Vienna. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Vienna<\/a>

Vienna at dusk. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Although I didn’t dine onboard ship tonight, I have to point out something another guest told me, and said I could print here. He is gluten-intolerant, <\/strong>and he had nothing but fabulous things to say about the staff onboard the Emerald Star<\/em>, and how well they looked after his dietary needs. He stated that he and his wife had even brought a loaf of gluten-free bread from home to eat onboard – just in case – but they haven’t even needed to open the package. I think that speaks highly of how seriously Emerald takes dietary requirements, and certainly for this guest, that peace of mind has really enhanced his enjoyment of this cruise.<\/p>\n

Finally, I want to close today\u2019s report with a quote from Sigmund Freud, who wrote the following about travel:<\/p>\n

\u201cIt seemed to me beyond the realms of possibility that I should travel so far \u2013 that I should \u2018go such a long way\u2019.\u2019 <\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Of course, places are only \u2018such a long way\u2019 until you\u2019ve been there. Then, you hold them in your closest memories.<\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Emerald Cruises, Budapest to Nuremberg<\/h2>\n\n\n\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t
DAY<\/B><\/td>PORT<\/B><\/td>ACTIVITIES<\/B><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Saturday, July 12, 2014<\/a><\/td>Budapest, Hungary<\/td>Embark Emerald Cruises' Emerald Star<\/i> in Budapest; Welcome Aboard Dinner<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Sunday, July 13<\/a><\/td>Budapest, Hungary<\/td>Guided tour of Budapest including Fisherman's Bastion and Castle Hill<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Monday, July 14<\/a><\/td>Bratislava, Slovakia<\/td>Old Town walking tour; EmeraldPlus excursion for tea with a local Slovakian family<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Tuesday, July 15<\/a><\/td>Vienna, Austria<\/td>Panoramic \"Ringstrasse\" tour of Vienna; free time and optional Schonbrunn Palace Tour and Viennese concert. <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Wednesday, July 16<\/a><\/td>Vienna \/ Durnstein \/ Melk, Austria<\/td>Guided tour of Melk Abbey; guided tour of Durnstein<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Thursday, July 17<\/a><\/td>Linz, Austria \/ Passau, Germany<\/td>Walking tours & free time in Linz and Passau; Optional full-day tour to Salzburg, Austria<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Friday, July 18<\/a><\/td>Regensburg \/ Weltenburg, Germany<\/td>Guided tours of Regensburg & Weltenburg Abbey; optional traditional Bavarian entertainment excursion<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Saturday, July 19<\/a><\/td>Nuremberg, Germany<\/td>Disembark & onward journey home.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vienna By Day and Night with Emerald Cruises Aaron Saunders, Live Voyage Reports Emerald Cruises\u2019 Emerald Star sailed into Vienna this morning, marking our arrival to our third city and our third capital, not to mention our third UNESCO World Heritage Site on this trip. After breakfast, I began my day like I have every […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":5298,"parent":4839,"menu_order":3,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/5305"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5305"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/5305\/revisions"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4839"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5305"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}