{"id":5307,"date":"2014-07-04T17:52:54","date_gmt":"2014-07-04T17:52:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/avidcruiser.com\/livevoyagereports\/?page_id=5307"},"modified":"2016-06-29T08:11:32","modified_gmt":"2016-06-29T14:11:32","slug":"day-5-durnstein-melk","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/live-voyage-reports\/emerald-waterways-emerald-sky-budapest-nuremberg\/day-5-durnstein-melk\/","title":{"rendered":"Day 5 – Durnstein and Melk"},"content":{"rendered":"

Durnstein, Melk and Austria’s Wachau Valley<\/h3>\n
\"Emerald<\/a>

Emerald Cruises’ sleek Emerald Star docked in Durnstein, Austria on the morning of July 16, 2014. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Aaron Saunders, Live Voyage Reports<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Our Danube Delights <\/em>itinerary aboard Emerald Cruises<\/strong>\u2019 Emerald Star <\/em><\/strong>went into Austrian overdrive today as we called on two very small but beautiful towns nestled within the country\u2019s picturesque Wachau Valley<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

At 0800, we arrived in Durnstein<\/strong>, a picturesque little village located at Kilometre 2000 of the Danube that is notable for its blue-and-white cathedral and the medieval ruins of Kuenringerburg Fortress<\/strong> that dates back to the 12th<\/sup> Century. Kuenringerburg is rather interesting: it was almost entirely destroyed in 1645 by \u2013 of all people \u2013 the Swedes, who razed it during the Thirty Years\u2019 War, toasted Sk\u00e5l<\/em>, and caught the next minstrel-carriage back to Stockholm. Today, you can still hike up to the ruins of the fortress, which held Richard the Lionheart in 1193. Being imprisoned in wine country must have been terrible\u2026<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The view of Durnstein from my Panorama Balcony Suite aboard Emerald Star. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Emerald Cruises provides a guided walking tour of Durnstein, which I do recommend taking even though the village itself is quite small and home to just 950 year-round residents. You can walk it yourself, to be sure \u2013but then you\u2019d miss out on the fascinating history of the town.<\/p>\n

\"Richard<\/a>

Richard the Lionheart spent some time in Durnstein as an unwilling tourist, imprisoned in the fortress in the upper left. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Durnstein's<\/a>

Durnstein’s medieval history is on display to this day – and also in souvenir form. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Guests<\/a>

Guests from onboard Emerald Star walk up to the town of Durnstein. Last year, the Danube flooded to extraordinary heights, rising to almost where this photo was taken. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Strolling<\/a>

Strolling through the quaint streets of Durnstein. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Because I\u2019ve been here before, I went half-and-half on the tour, sticking with our guide for the first 30 minutes and then peeling off when I saw one of my favorite stores open: Wieser<\/strong>. The Wachau Valley, where Durnstein is located, is noted not only for its fabulous wines, but also for what I like to call \u201capricot everything.\u201d You can buy apricot schnapps, apricot liqueur, apricot-infused gin \u2013 even jars of apricot liqueur-infused gummies. For \u20ac12, I picked myself up some fantastic apricot liqueur that I plan to enjoy when I return home.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The pretty Stift Durnstein can be visited and explored for just three Euros. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

I also visited Stift Durnstein<\/strong> (Durnstein Cathedral<\/strong>) for the first time. All you have to do is pay a simple entry fee of \u20ac3, which is more than worth it to see the Baroque-style cathedral that was constructed between 1715 and 1733. If you follow the sign labelled \u201cKirche<\/em>\u201d, you will be taken to the church. Choosing the opposite direction takes you to a balustrade-lined observation deck in the shadow of the blue-and-white Clock Tower that overlooks the Danube.<\/p>\n

\"Standing<\/a>

Standing on the outer balcony of Durnstein’s most famous landmark: the blue-and-white Stift Durnstein. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Durnstein<\/a>

Durnstein – and Stift Durnstein – as seen from onboard Emerald Star as we make our way up the Danube towards Melk. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

All too quickly our time in Durnstein came to an end. I would personally have loved to have had even just another hour in Durnstein; two hours was a little bit rushed, I felt. On the other hand, most cruise lines don\u2019t visit Durnstein and Melk on the same day; indeed, none of the ships we were docked with in Durnstein (a German and a French vessel) sailed on to Melk with us. In fact, I counted over six separate river cruise ships that sailed past Durnstein entirely. If I had to choose between a short call in Durnstein and no call in Durnstein, I\u2019d pick the short call.<\/p>\n

\"Emerald<\/a>

Emerald Star’s Sun Deck was the place to be for our mid-morning scenic cruising along the Danube. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

For what it\u2019s worth, I didn\u2019t hike up to the fortress where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned on today\u2019s visit, but I did so two years ago, and here\u2019s the verdict: the views are amazing, and the hike takes 20 minutes. It\u2019s very ambitious, though, with lots of loose earth, steep inclines and large boulders and tree trunks. In other words, you can get there \u2013 but you\u2019ll work for it. Don\u2019t attempt this on a hot day without bottled water. I\u2019m pretty active, but it wore me out on a trip here one October. Hiking it on a day in mid-July where the temperature at nine in the morning pushes 25\u00b0C might be asking a lot of your body!<\/p>\n

\"Our<\/a>

Our scenic cruising took us from Durnstein to Melk, located at Km 2035 along the Danube. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Back onboard Emerald Star<\/em>, we set sail up the Danube and through the gorgeous Wachau Valley. During our scenic cruising, the bar staff came along and offered guests complimentary glasses of a local Wachau Valley Riesling. It was a nice \u2013 and unexpected \u2013 touch, particularly as lunch \u2013 with its complimentary wines and beers \u2013 was still another hour away.<\/p>\n

Lunch in the Reflections Restaurant was one of the best so far this cruise. Lunch is served buffet-style, and there are numerous options for those who wants salads, soups, meats, and everything in between. Perhaps more importantly, lunch buffet selections change daily. Today, a spectacular split pea soup was served, and I was egged on to try the cheese-stuffed Bratwurst that was devilishly good.<\/p>\n

\"Disembarking<\/a>

Disembarking Emerald Star in Melk, Austria for an afternoon tour of the imposing Melk Abbey. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Emerald<\/a>

Emerald Star at Melk’s Berth 9. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

By the time lunch had finished, Emerald Star<\/em> had drawn silently into Berth 9 in Melk, Austria<\/strong>, and guests began to assemble to disembark for an afternoon of guided touring.<\/p>\n

Melk<\/strong> is a bit of a conundrum as a town. After all, it largely owes its existence to the massive Stift Melk<\/em><\/strong> \u2013 or Melk Abbey<\/strong> \u2013 that sits perched nearly 200 feet above the village. When you approach the town from the pier, it\u2019s not difficult to imagine it as it must have looked centuries ago, with the Abbey lording over the town like a King surveying his fiefdom.<\/p>\n

\"Stift<\/a>

Stift Melk – or Melk Abbey – lords over the town of Melk. It’s seen here later in the day, along with an unusual amount of road work. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Emerald Cruises includes a guided walking tour of Stift Melk, coupled with ample free time in which to explore the quaint little village of Melk. Because the Abbey is situated so high above the town, four coaches met us at the pier and whisked us to the parking lot at the top and rear of the Abbey. From there, we made our way down the steps of the terraced entryway while our Cruise Director, Daniela, purchased our entry tickets and got our local Museum guides together.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>

The elaborate terraced entryway at the rear of Melk Abbey…Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"...and<\/a>

…and the river cruise ship invasion. Fortunately, visits to the Abbey are controlled and spaced to give each group their own time in each room. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Stift Melk was founded in 1089 when Leopold II of Austria gave one of his castles to the Benedictine Monks as a bit of a morale-boosting exercise. The abbey that currently sits on the site, however, \u201conly\u201d dates back to 1702 when construction began. That process lasted for the next 34 years until 1736, when it was finally completed. The Abbey then managed to survive both World Wars, the Napoleonic Wars, and a massive fire.<\/p>\n

\"Melk<\/a>

Melk Abbey’s inner courtyard, under brooding skies. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

This was my fourth visit to Melk Abbey, and I was surprised to see that changes are continually being made to the Abbey, even since my last visit a year and a half ago. The inner courtyard that borders the Marble Hall and the Abbey Library is in the process of being ripped apart \u2013 for what purpose, though, no one will say. There are also new, electric sliding glass doors positioned on the exit of the Marble Hall to the outdoor promenade. Presumably, this helps keep the room cool in the summer, and warm in the winter; my first visit in December 2011 was memorably drafty.<\/p>\n

\"Inside<\/a>

Inside Melk Abbey. After four visits, I’m still never tired of seeing this beautiful Monastery. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Unique<\/a>

Unique rooms take visitors through the rich history of the Abbey. Each has its own design, colour scheme, and – of course, – historic artifacts. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"The<\/a>

The gorgeous Marble Hall in Melk Abbey. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"Exiting<\/a>

Exiting the Marble Hall takes you to a balcony overlooking both Melk and the Danube. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"The<\/a>

The Melk Abbey Cathedral. Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Even after being here many times, I still find the Abbey endlessly impressive \u2013 but I wish they\u2019d let me loose in the library that houses over 10,000 titles. I don\u2019t read Latin, but I think an afternoon browsing the shelves of the Abbey Library might be good incentive to learn!<\/p>\n

Before returning to the Emerald Star<\/em>, I took the opportunity to have another pint of Austrian beer at a small, cottage-like hotel and bar situated adjacent to the main berthing space in Melk. I\u2019ve seen this particular building several times, but my travels to Melk have always been in the off-season, so I made an on-the-spot decision that a cold beer there would be both refreshing and experiential.<\/p>\n

\"Exploring<\/a>

Exploring the streets of Melk…Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

\"...I<\/a>

…I found a shop that sells German model trains. Austria brings out my inner geek; it took all my willpower not to buy this engine! Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

I was not disappointed; service was fantastic, the views were superb, and the beer was \u2013 as expected \u2013 suitably tasty. The wasps were all over my pint, but I even dealt with that, too. I hate wasps, bees, pretty well anything that can buzz or sting. But there\u2019s something about Austria that I feel is good for me; Austria relaxes me.<\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo \u00a9 2014 Aaron Saunders<\/p><\/div>\n

Speaking of relaxing, the Daily Program onboard Emerald Star<\/em> for Wednesday, 16 July 2014:<\/p>\n

\n