{"id":44327,"date":"2021-05-25T10:11:45","date_gmt":"2021-05-25T14:11:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/?p=44327"},"modified":"2021-06-10T15:04:18","modified_gmt":"2021-06-10T19:04:18","slug":"croisieurope-gerard-schmitter","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rivercruiseadvisor.com\/2021\/05\/croisieurope-gerard-schmitter\/","title":{"rendered":"River Cruising\u2019s Unlikeliest Pioneer: In Strasbourg, Where River Cruising Changed Course"},"content":{"rendered":"

In previous posts, we learned how river cruising evolved from an experimental steamboat on the Sa\u00f4ne\u00a0<\/a>to paddle-wheelers plying rivers in the United States and Europe<\/a>\u00a0to something resembling river cruising today: the first hotel barge on French canals<\/a>. After that first barge made its debut, forward-thinking entrepreneurs began to develop and build riverboats that became the blueprints for the magnificent vessels of today. In this post, we head to a city on the Rhine to meet one of river cruising’s unlikeliest pioneers. Who would have thought that the son of a potter would grow up to change the course of river cruising? And yet he did. Here\u2019s his story.<\/em><\/p>\n

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Scenic Crystal docked in Kehl, Germany, on the Rhine. With its Germanic-French culture, Strasbourg, France, sits across the Rhine from Kehl. River cruise guests typically step ashore in Kehl to visit Stragmasbourg via 15-minute motor-coach transfers. A Strasbourg-based company does it differently, however. Operating more than 50 ships, CroisiEurope’s vessels, including its hotel barges, were designed to dock in the centers of such cities as Strasbourg and Honfleur (a convenience for Seine river cruises). That ability is one of many innovations that set CroisiEurope apart. The company began to change river cruising more than 40 years ago. \u00a9\u00a02012 Ralph Grizzle<\/p><\/div>\n

In this post, our adventure takes us to Strasbourg, France. It was here, as we\u2019ll later discover, that river cruising changed course to become what it is today. We\u2019ll meet the man responsible for that change and learn how one of his innovations spawned the industry that followed. First, though, we\u2019ll get to know the region where he grew up and learn about the city that set the stage for his success.<\/p>\n

Rhine river cruises have brought me to Strasbourg many times. My visits here, however, were always brief, never more than a day. In 2012, that changed when a quest to find my family roots<\/a> landed me in this beautiful city for an entire week (my surname Grizzle evolved as Gris, Grissel, then Grizzle). During my week in Strasbourg, I got to know the city and found myself wanting to return as soon – and as often – as possible.<\/p>\n

For livability and for tourists, Strasbourg ranks among France’s most desirable cities. This lovely city is graced with inspired architecture, picturesque parks, charming canals, a network of bicycle paths, and a mix of German\/French culture.<\/p>\n

Throngs of river cruise passengers step ashore to visit Strasbourg annually. Visiting between the arrival of spring and the close of the new year, they typically set out to explore the Old Town, where they inevitably can be seen craning their necks upward to gaze upon the impressive Strasbourg Cathedral. As the centerpiece of Strasbourg, the cathedral is a sight to behold. Described by the German poet Goethe as a “sublimely towering, wide-spreading tree of God,” the 466-foot ornate structure ranked as the world’s tallest building from 1647 to 1874.<\/p>\n

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As seen from our hotel room (Hotel Rohan), the Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg. \u00a9 2019 Ralph Grizzle<\/p><\/div>\n

Though the cathedral is a must-see, inside and out, we\u2019ll stray from the crowds for a 10-minute stroll to the historic quarter known as Le Petit France. As we make our way there, be sure to mind the trams and bicycles. They’re ubiquitous throughout Strasbourg, making the city easy to get around for residents and tourists alike. You\u2019ll no doubt be tempted by the pastry shops we\u2019ll pass along the way. Not to worry. We\u2019ll sit down for a bite to eat later on.<\/p>\n

Situated at the Grand \u00cele\u2019s western end, Le Petit France features half-timbered buildings and fabulous (and filling) restaurants. During the Middle Ages, this charming quarter was home to the city\u2019s tanners, millers and fishermen. Today, it’s one of the city’s major tourist attractions.<\/p>\n

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The Tanners House, a restaurant occupying a building from 1592 in Strasbourg’s Le Petit France. \u00a9\u00a02012 Ralph Grizzle<\/p><\/div>\n

Coursing through the center of Le Petit France is the River Ill, a tributary of the Rhine. Let\u2019s get a closer look at the river. From our vantage point, we see that the Ill splits into cascading channels that are spanned by an unusual building. We\u2019ll pause here for a moment to admire this feat of engineering. With its three bridges and four towers, the structure ranks among Strasbourg\u2019s most photographed tourist attractions.<\/p>\n

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The Barrage Vauban. Courtesy Claude Truong-Ngoc, CC BY-SA 3.0\u00a0CC BY-SA 3.0<\/a> via Wikimedia Commons<\/p><\/div>\n

Built in the 17th century, the Barrage Vauban (Vauban Dam) was designed as a defensive work. In the event of an attack, the dam could raise the level of the River Ill to flood all the lands south of the city, making those lands impassable for the enemy and thus protecting Strasbourg\u2019s historical center. Military commanders opened the flood gates in 1870 when forces attacked Strasbourg during the Franco-Prussian War. Despite the maneuver, however, the French later surrendered.<\/p>\n

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In October of 2019, we strolled Le Petit France after dinner, lovely with its canals and lighted buildings. \u00a9\u00a02019 Ralph Grizzle<\/p><\/div>\n

The Barrage Vauban was designed by the French military engineer S\u00e9bastien Le Prestre de Vauban. His plans called for a substantial number of sandstone slabs from the quarries in the nearby Vosges, a range of low mountains east of Strasbourg. To transport the sandstone, engineers constructed the 12-mile Canal de la Bruche. Starting near Molsheim, the canal descends via 11 locks from the Vosges foothills to the western side of Strasbourg.<\/p>\n

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After the Canal de la Bruche was built, others followed, the Canal du Rh\u00f4ne au Rhine, connecting, as the name implies the Rhine and the Rh\u00f4ne\/Sa\u00f4ne rivers; the Canal de la Marne au Rhine, which connects Strasbourg with the Burgundy and Champagne regions; and the Grand Canal d\u2019Alsace, which makes possible navigation between Basel and Strasbourg. Pictured here is the Canal de Bruche in Ergersheim. Albert Gr., CC BY-SA 4.0<\/a>, via Wikimedia Commons<\/p><\/div>\n

The importance of canals to Strasbourg cannot be overstated. Canals not only played a role in the construction of the Barrage Vauban but also contributed to Strasbourg being an important center for fluvial navigation.\u00a0As we\u2019re paused here admiring the Barrage Vauban, we see several glass-enclosed canal boats passing. The boats are carrying tourists seeing Strasbourg via its canals.<\/p>\n

In 2019, I got my wish to return to Strasbourg for an extended stay. I hosted my first barge trip from the city. During the days before we \u201cset sail,\u201d we visited the surrounding region. Our guide drove us through the wine-producing region of Alsace, visiting lovely towns such as Colmar and Riquewihr. The more I got to know Strasbourg and Alsace, the more I liked the region. I knew that others who visit this site would like Strasbourg too.<\/p>\n

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Near Strasbourg on the Alsatian Wine Route, the charming towns of Riquewihr and Colmar. \u00a9\u00a02019 Ralph Grizzle<\/p><\/div>\n

The barge trip that followed our regional tour was particularly lovely, traveling over the course of a week via charming canals downstream from LaGarde to Strasbourg. On the last evening of our trip, as our barge was docked in the city center, our group did an evening canal cruise on one of the glass-enclosed canal boats. Seeing the city from the perspective of the canals was enjoyable. It’s time now that we moved on.<\/p>\n

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An image of the upstream side of the Barrage Vauban from 1750. Courtesy Biblioth\u00e8que nationale et universitaire of Strasbourg<\/a>.<\/p><\/div>\n

Before leaving Le Petit France, however, let\u2019s sit for a moment. I promised you something to drink and eat, so I\u2019ve ordered a bottle of Cr\u00e9mant d\u2019Alsace<\/em>, a refreshing sparkling wine, and a Tarte Flamb\u00e9e<\/em>. <\/em>Both are regional specialties. While it would be a disservice to liken the Tarte Flamb\u00e9e <\/em>to pizza, it does bear a striking resemblance, although the Alsatian version is smothered in thinly sliced onions. And the Cr\u00e9mant d\u2019Alsace? <\/em>It doesn\u2019t carry the reputation (or price) of true champagne, but to my palate, it\u2019s just as good –\u00a0\u00e0 votre sant\u00e9!<\/em><\/p>\n

Drink up. In a few minutes,\u00a0we\u2019re going to leave Le Petit France for Betschdorf. It\u2019s only 40 minutes away, but magically, we\u2019ll arrive decades before<\/em> leaving our table here. Yes, we\u2019re going to time travel. World War II has ended and Europe is rebuilding itself. The good folks of Betschdorf are busy doing what they have done best for centuries: manufacturing pottery. And though generations of potters have stayed in Betschdorf their whole lives, we\u2019re going to meet one potter who left. Through a series of entrepreneurial endeavors, the young man we\u2019re about to meet would grow up to change the course of river cruising.<\/p>\n

A Potter, An Artist & An Entrepreneur<\/h2>\n

Here we are in Betschdorf, a lovely city\u00a0abutting the northern edge of\u00a0For\u00eat de Haguenau,\u00a0<\/em>France\u2019s sixth-largest forest.\u00a0People have inhabited the\u00a0vicinity since neolithic times, but it was in the early 1700s that immigrants from the Rhineland began making stoneware in the Betschdorf region.\u00a0A stroll today along the city streets reveals many 18th-century half-timbered houses, typical of the rural villages in the Alsatian lowlands.\u00a0The stoneware tradition that began in the 1700s continued, and today, Betschdorf ranks as a center for craft pottery, especially salt-glazed stoneware.<\/p>\n

The son of a potter, G\u00e9rard Schmitter was born in 1936. Following in his father\u2019s footsteps, the young Schmitter studied decorative art in Limoges, but later would set his sights on a series of entrepreneurial endeavors. After receiving his education, he and two colleagues bought a quarry, and in 1970, they opened a leisure park in Berg (France) called Paradisland.\u00a0Following that, the young Schmitter opened a restaurant called Rhinland.<\/p>\n

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Gerard Schmitter. Courtesy of CroisiEurope<\/p><\/div>\n

Situated on the popular Plobsheim Lake, upriver along the Rhine from Strasbourg, Schmitter\u2019s 500-seat restaurant did a booming business on the weekends but not so much during the week. The entrepreneur came up with an idea to drum up business. In 1976, he chartered a boat to cruise between Strasbourg and Plobsheim. The boat he chartered, appropriately named Strasbourg<\/i>, signified the launch of a new company called Alsace Croisi\u00e8res<\/i>.<\/p>\n

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In 1976, Schmitter chartered the Strasbourg, pictured above, for day trips on the Rhine. Those trips proved to be popular, planting the seed in Schmitter\u2019s mind for further expansion. Photos courtesy of CroisiEurope<\/p><\/div>\n

In 1982, Schmitter bought his first ship, the aptly named Alsace I\u00a0<\/em>to cruise\u00a0the Rhine between Lauterbourg and Plobsheim. You could drive between the two, about 50 miles apart, in an hour, but Schmitter\u2019s boat allowed for leisurely sailings, where people could dine during the day and dance the evening away upon their return.<\/p>\n

Inspired by Alsace I’<\/em>s success, in 1984 Schmitter began to offer cruises between Strasbourg and the Lorelei, which you\u2019ll remember from our post on steamboats on the Rhine<\/a>. The voyage lasted several days, and as there were no sleeping quarters on Alsace I<\/em>, guests had to disembark for overnight stays at hotels in towns such as Rudesheim.<\/p>\n

Seeking to improve on that and encouraged by his wife Janine, Schmitter built the first riverboats with cabins. And thus it was that in 1984, the company launched its first cabin boats to navigate on the Rhine and its tributaries. Those boats –\u00a0Hansi<\/em>,\u00a0Kl\u00e9ber<\/em> and\u00a0Petite France<\/em> – made it possible for Alsace Croisi\u00e8res<\/em> to extend its voyages along the Rhine and its tributaries – the Neckar, the Moselle, the Main and the Saar – and to venture to Holland\u2019s inland waterways.<\/p>\n

Two years later, the company upped the comfort ante by acquiring what it called its first \u201cPrestige\u201d category boat. Originally built as a tugboat, the redone Kellermann<\/i> introduced a totally new design. At 75 meters, it was the longest in Schmitter\u2019s five-ship fleet. And with 48 cabins, Kellermann<\/em> was also the most comfortable. (Until a few years ago, Kellermann operated as MS Andante for Holland\u2019s Calanda Riverline Cruises<\/a> for Dutch guests ).<\/p>\n

In 1990, Schmitter decided to take charge of his fleet design. The first result: MS Libert\u00e9<\/em>, built in Belgium with a capacity of 150 passengers and more space per passenger than on his previous ships.<\/p>\n

Alsace Croisi\u00e8res<\/em> began a rapid expansion, building new ships and opening new itineraries on the Danube, Rh\u00f4ne and Sa\u00f4ne rivers. The company was no longer only a regional operator. In 1997, Alsace Croisi\u00e8res<\/em> was renamed CroisiEurope. The name change was marked by the company\u2019s entry into the French capital, with the first Paris-Honfleur cruise, on by MS Douce France<\/em>.<\/p>\n

In 1999, Schmitter sold his company to his four children, who continue to run CroisiEurope today. Schmitter returned to his art, painting canvasses in the Vosges. Many of his paintings grace the public rooms on CrosiEurope\u2019s riverboats. He passed away in 2012.<\/p>\n

The story does not end there, however. CroisiEurope now operates on all of Europe\u2019s major rivers, as well as in Russia, Asia and Africa. The company also has a fleet of ocean-going ships and coastal cruisers. And a few years ago, CroisiEurope developed paddle-wheelers that allowed for navigation of the notoriously shallow Loire and Elbe rivers.<\/p>\n

In 2013, CroisiEurope brought back to life what it called a \u201chistorical navigation mode on French canals.\u201d\u00a0CroisiEurope embarked on an ambitious mission to launch five modern hotel barges. Unlike the converted cargo barge\u00a0Palinurus, <\/em>which we learned about in an earlier post<\/a>, CroisiEurope\u2019s vessels were custom-built for leisurely adventures along the French Waterways in Alsace-Lorraine, Burgundy and the Loire Valley, Provence and the Camargue, Champagne and the Canal Saint-Martin in Paris.<\/p>\n

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CroisiEurope\u2019s five hotel barges each feature 11 staterooms with private bathrooms (showers, no tubs), lounges with glass all around and cozy furniture, bars, restaurants, Jacuzzis, outdoor dining areas, bikes and upper decks. Photo courtesy of CroisiEurope.<\/p><\/div>\n

This all takes us back to where our story began, on the beautiful canals of France. River cruising as a vacation industry\u00a0was beginning to blossom, particularly for Europeans (North Americans and other nationalities would come later). In the next posts about the history of river cruising, we’ll learn about the pioneers who built some of the most innovative riverboats afloat. Many of those pioneers came from Europe to the United States to tap into millions of would-be travelers eager to explore Europe\u2019s beautiful waterways and the continent’s lovely cities on the rivers, not the least of which is the city where our story began, ever-lovely Strasbourg.<\/p>\n

Join Me On A Barge Journey In France<\/strong><\/p>\n

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I am hosting three barge trips in France in 2022.<\/p><\/div>\n

Luxury hotel barges on the canals in France are a great way to travel. You can learn why by reading this post:\u00a010 Reasons To Choose Barge Cruising.<\/a>\u00a0If you’d like to join me on a barge trip in France, see what’s available at\u00a0Ralph Grizzle\u2019s Hosted River Cruise Trips<\/a><\/p>\n

More posts about The History of River Cruising\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n