This morning, guests aboard Tauck’s Swiss Jewel had their first experience with one of the many locks that line the Danube.

The Gabcikovo Lock is the largest one along our itinerary route, rising to an imposing 60 feet in height. Tauck Director Andy had live commentary from the ship’s navigation bridge as we entered the lock gates to be raised up and continue our journey westbound along the Danube.

The entire affair was completed just after 7:30am this morning, and I was able to come up on deck in time to see us sail out of this engineering marvel.

The atmosphere onboard this morning was easygoing and relaxed as we cruised along. Many guests took the opportunity to catch up on some reading or to take in the sights outside on the open decks prior to our arrival in Bratislava, Slovakia just after 11am.

This being my second full river cruise, I am enjoying watching the guests who are experiencing this wonderful method of travel for the first time. There’s an excellent mix of travel backgrounds here, from people who have only ever done Tauck land tours to guests who are deep-ocean cruising veterans and even a handful like myself who have had the opportunity to sail with other river cruise lines.

I have to credit river cruising for getting me hooked on designer toiletries like L’Occitane, and now I can add Molton Brown to that list. The bathroom amenities here onboard the Swiss Jewel are fantastic, with peppermint-scented body wash and soothing, Asian-inspired shampoo.

Here’s a look at what is happening around the Swiss Jewel today:

• 9:45am: Join your Tauck Directors in the Main Lounge for an introduction to Vienna.
• 11:00am: MS Swiss Jewel arrives in Bratislava, Slovakia.
• 11:15am: Meet Guest Lecturer and author, Martin Sloboda, for an insightful introduction to Slovakia: Past, Present & Future.
• 12:15pm: Light lunch in the Lido Bar, Deck 3 aft.
• 12:15pm: Lunch in the Dining Room, Deck 2 forward.
• 1:30pm: Meet in the main lounge to begin our walking tour of Bratislava.
• 6:00pm – 7:00pm: Happy Hour in the Main Lounge. See the menu for special prices.
• 6:15pm: Daily Discovery Briefing; Main Lounge, Deck 3.
• 6:30pm – 8:30pm: Dinner in the Dining Room.
• 7:00pm: Italian cuisine in the Lido Bar. See reception for menu and reservations. Please make your booking prior to 2:00pm.
• 9:00pm: Slovak folkloric performance in the Main Lounge, Deck 3.
• 11:30pm: ALL ABOARD!
• 12:00pm: MS Swiss Jewel departs Bratislava for Vienna.

One thing I really appreciated this morning was the lecture given by Martin Sloboda, a native Slovakian who described both his experiences and those of his family during the communist era that followed the end of World War II. He told of how, at the age of 16, he crossed the border into Austria for the first time in 1989 after the fall of communism – an act that would have seen him shot just one year before.

But modern Bratislava is a beautiful place, and hearing Martin Sloboda speak really positively impacted my time here. I had no idea that just a little over two decades ago, today’s visit would have been impossible, if not downright dangerous. And yet here I am, enjoying myself on another unseasonably warm, fall day, wandering the streets of Bratislava.

And what a lovely place it is. The largest city in Slovakia, Bratislava is home to some 460,000 inhabitants and borders both Austria and Hungary. It is a city that has been heavily influenced by people of Austrian, Hungarian, Slovakian, Jewish, and Czechoslovakian backgrounds, and its astonishingly well-preserved “Old Town” city centre reflects that.

Today, I broke away from the guided tours offered – not because they were boring, but merely because I have itchy feet, and I love exploring places like Bratislava on foot. I enjoy loosing myself in the streets, taking turns left and right, doubling back upon myself and stumbling upon new and unseen sights. It’s one of the most rewarding aspects of travel: the ability to fully immerse yourself in the place you are visiting.

It is, however, worth pointing out that Tauck takes great pains to give their guests the opportunity to be part of the active walkers group, or the leisure walkers group that moves at a more relaxed pace. This is great for guests with mobility issues, or for those who enjoy the chance to linger and discover a bit more history.

Fall was definitely in the air today. Several outdoor markets in Bratislava were selling pumpkins and spices, and the scents of the holiday season began to waft through the square next to the Primatial Palace. It was a tantalizing reminder of the wonderful Christmas Markets I toured last year. I would be willing to bet that Bratislava’s Christmas Markets are not to be missed!

After a sufficient amount of strolling around the storied cobblestone streets, I decided to treat myself to some local culture by sampling a pint of Slovakian beer. Sweet and fruity without being overpowering, it was almost as if Corona, Grolsch and Guinness had a love child together and produced this Slovakian beer. Just the reward after an afternoon of exploring, and the setting was magnificent, with the sun shining through the trees along Panska street.

Once again, I found myself thinking: where else but a river cruise can you experience something like this, with your ship docked fifteen feet away?

As I made my way back to the elegant Swiss Jewel, I decided to check out the very old – and very interesting – Russian river cruise ship that had pulled in aft of us. And I kept walking until I stumbled upon a fantastic green space that gave way to a brand-new shopping centre! At sunset, it was a gorgeous way to cap off the day here in Bratislava, and some of the few stores that were actually open on a Sunday. If you’re after some unique brands that can’t be found in North America, turn right, not left, when you disembark your river cruise ship here; you will be glad you did!

This evening, I had the good fortune to dine in the intimate Lido Restaurant, located aft on Deck 3, which was transformed this evening into a multi-course Italian eatery. With the retractable glass windows facing aft opened up to the elements, and with the soothing sounds of the Danube wafting in, we enjoyed a six-course meal complete with some stunning wine pairings.

Here’s the great thing about Tauck’s alternative Lido eatery: it’s completely free. One-hundred-percent free. And the food is spectacular, with courses trotted out with exacting efficiency. Perhaps even more telling, the taste, presentation and variety were right up there with luxury lines I have sailed on; it’s that good.

The dedicated service, intimate atmosphere, and an entire glass wall of windows that can open when the weather cooperates made this one of the best experiences I’ve had on any river cruise. I love eating outdoors, but being able to eat inside within the sights and sounds of Europe just filled me with wonder.

On tonight’s menu:

Antipasti

Sicilian Scampi

Antipasti Caldo

Gnocchi con Salvia

Zuppa (Soup)

Melone e Parma

Insalata

Pomodoro & Mozzarella

Piatti Secondi

Parmesan-crusted Steak

Or

Spinach Stuffed Pancakes

Dessert Italiano

White Chocolate Raspberry Cheesecake

See what I mean? To. Die. For.

But one aspect I really want to highlight about the Swiss Jewel is the one feature that cannot be built, refurbished or technologically advanced: the friendly, dedicated and energetic crew.

Now, every crew on every river cruise I have taken has been stellar. But I am impressed just how well the crew, the Tauck Directors and the guests seem to mesh. On a ship where the line controls the ship and the employees under one umbrella, this would be expected and necessary. But with Tauck exclusively chartering ships built, staffed and operated by Scylla, I wondered how that mesh would pan out.

As it turns out, it works very well indeed.

Whether they’re your Tauck Directors who travel with you both on and off ship, or the crew onboard the Scylla-operated vessels, everyone is dedicated to ensuring you have a magical time. As it should be, I hear you say. And you’d be right. But it is how effortless they make it all look that left a lasting impression on me.

So if you’re headed to Europe aboard a river cruise ship – on any line, really – talk to the crew. For most of them, this is their homeland and their work. Their business is based on cruising up and down the waterways of Europe, and they know all the cool places to go that the guidebooks won’t tell you about.

Tauck has built up a reputation for providing high quality, enriching land tours for 86 years. And since 1992, they’ve offered ways to explore Europe by river cruise ship. Now, in 2012, the river cruise boom is here in a big way; indeed, there has never been a more important decade to the industry than the one we find ourselves in right now – and it promises to be an exciting one.

Tonight, guests aboard Tauck’s Swiss Jewel will sail into the darkness of the Danube, bound for one of my all-time favorite places: Wien, or Vienna, Austria. In typical Tauck fashion, it looks like it’s going to include some very “uncommon access”, including a special dinner at a Viennese palace.

Read the full Live Voyage Report onboard Tauck’s Swiss Jewel on our sister-site, From the Deck Chair.