Viking Mandalay: Village Life in Ohn Ne Choung, Myanmar

This morning we enjoyed a leisurely sail up the Irrawaddy River. Alternating through a landscape of brown sandbars and lush green forest canopies, the banks of the Irrawaddy are dotted with innumerable white and gold stupas. The sight of these unique architectural shapes never ceased to delight passengers. Just when you thought you’d surely seen the last stupa… We all joked that we’d return home with 4,381 photos of stupas spires on our phones. We weren’t far off.

As we sailed toward the tiny fishing village of Ohn Ne Choung, we participated in demonstrations of two Burmese cultural staples: longhi and thanaka. This educational niche is something Viking is known for. If you find yourself curious about something you experienced in the culture that day, it’s likely you’ll have a lecture, film screening, or demo about it that night. They anticipate our curiosities so well and their educational program is a highlight of the trip.

You may remember my post about thanaka face cream yesterday. Burmese men, women, and children wear it every day. In the countryside, where people are more likely to be working outside all day, people rub it over their entire body as a sunscreen. In urban environments, where that level of protection is not as necessary, people tend to create interesting deigns on their face. It’s fascinating to see. They use the cream as a sunscreen, coolant, acne mask, moisturizer, astringent…even medicinally for measles, poisoning, fever…you name it.

Stumps of the thanaka tree are set for our demonstration on the mysterious beauty cream. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Stumps of the thanaka tree were used in a demonstration of the recipe for the mysterious beauty cream. © 2015 Gail Jessen
thanaka demo
A Viking crew member (dressed in drag from the longhi demo) shows us how the bark is ground against a stone tablet, adding water every so often to keep it smooth. Sometimes they add citrus juice (for whitening) or jasmine (for inflammation). © 2015 Gail Jessen
thanaka demo
If you’re interested in purchasing thanaka (I definitely did!), you can get the large size jar for all of $0.75 USD. Look for the jar that says “EXPORT” to indicate they made the cream with filtered water. © 2015 Gail Jessen

Longhi are the multi-functional cloth sarongs worn by men, women, and children. Not only do they allow  ventilation in Myanmar’s stifling heat and humidity, they can be utilized in so many different ways. Program Director Nanda (who wears his longhi every day) and crew member Tin (ship name “Justin” a’la Timberlake) showed us the traditional long wrap skirt, shorts, a jacket, messenger bag, backpack, hat, turban to stabilize everything the women carry on their heads, and more. They even showed us how men and women use squat toilets without removing their clothing, as most westerners find it necessary to do. It was a thorough demonstration. It was also hysterical to watch him manipulate the longhi and blush at the cheers from the passengers when he’d pretend to let it fall. It was a good natured ice breaker.

Justin demonstrates the wrapping technique on traditional Burmese longhi.
Justin demonstrates the wrapping technique on traditional Burmese longhi. We learned that women must put the longhi on and take it off from the feet and men must go over the head. © 2015 Gail Jessen
My personal favorite, the messenger bag. Viking gifted each passenger their own longhi. I immediately turned mine into a bag. © 2015 Gail Jessen
My personal favorite, the messenger bag. Viking gifted each passenger their own longhi. I immediately turned mine into a bag. Naturally. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Fellow passengers attempt to wrap and tie their longhis, with one guest going full girding (used when playing sports). Most of the men found them very comfortable and two men wore them to dinner on the ship that night. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Fellow passengers attempt to wrap and tie their longhis, with one guest going full girding (used when playing sports). Most of the men found them very comfortable and two men wore them to dinner on the ship that night. © 2015 Gail Jessen

By early afternoon the boat slowed to a crawl and began making its way toward a sandy shore. There are no docks for ships along on the Irrawaddy. By this time we were so far from a city that we couldn’t spy any indication of a village tucked up the hill behind a patch of Banyan trees. Then as if from nowhere, children started filtering out of the trees to catch a glimpse of our seemingly giant ship. Some were excited, giggling, and waving at us on the sun deck, others weren’t quite sure what was happening and held back. A few women followed the children, each carrying stacks of blankets on their heads, ready to sell their wares. By the time we disembarked, it felt as though every child living in the village must surely be surrounding us. Some immediately grabbed the hands of certain passengers, leading them proudly into their village. A boy around age 11 told me, boldly and quickly, through the interpretation of Nanda… “You are strong! So strong!” The girls thought my white linen gaucho pants were hysterical. I would crack them up every so often by spreading the giant parachute legs wide and flapping them like a bird. They couldn’t stop laughing at me.

Ohn Ne Choung is a traditional Burmese village of just 350 people. The few hours we spent there felt like stepping back in time. Viking River Cruises partners with this village on environmental restoration projects and development initiatives, such as a clean water well built a couple years ago. The villagers knew Nanda and welcomed us into their homes with warm smiles.

The Viking Mandalay skillfully navigated the Irrawaddy sandbars and the crew made safe embarkation docks from ramps and railings kept on board. © 2015 Gail Jessen
The Viking Mandalay skillfully navigated the Irrawaddy sandbars and the crew made safe disembarkation docks from ramps and railings kept on board. When the Viking brochure tells you you must be agile and mobile for this itinerary, they mean it. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Children from Ohn Ne Choung village were busy with laundry when we pulled up outside their home. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Children from Ohn Ne Choung village were busy with laundry when we pulled up outside their home. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Women prepare peanuts for oil pressing and cooking. Peanuts crops are an economic focus for this village. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Women prepare peanuts for oil pressing and cooking. Peanut crops are an economic focus for this village. © 2015 Gail Jessen
We were invited into a home in Ohn Ne Choung and I was drawn to this kitchen, where three generations of women were preparing a meal. I wish I could've photographed them, but they were too shy. © 2015 Gail Jessen
We were invited into a home in Ohn Ne Choung and I was drawn to three generations of women preparing a meal in this kitchen. I wish I could’ve photographed them, but they were too shy. © 2015 Gail Jessen

This village was one of my favorite stops on the entire itinerary. Many passengers expressed the same. Since Viking has carved out a niche as a company focused on educational travel, they attract passengers who want to get below the surface of a destination. Viking passengers ask why something is the way it is, how did it come to be that way, what is the current state of affairs, etc.? The children who run after our tour buses selling trinkets earn more money from books than anything else. Curiosity rules at Viking River Cruises. After sailing along the banks of this river, wondering what sort of life carried on just behind the tree line, we finally found out.

Palm fences lining every communal village street have a beautiful, sculptural design. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Palm fences lining every communal village street have a beautiful, sculptural design. © 2015 Gail Jessen
A kitchen outside a home in Ohn Ne Choung. It is common for many generations of a family to live in the same home. © 2015 Gail Jessen
A kitchen outside a home in Ohn Ne Choung. It is common for many generations of a family to live in the same home. © 2015 Gail Jessen
The children of the village asked, in all sincerity, "Have they ever seen cows? Do they have cows in their village?" They were confused as to why a hoard of tall, white people kept stopping to photograph their cows. © 2015 Gail Jessen
The children of the village asked, in all sincerity, “Have they ever seen cows? Do they have cows in their village?” They were confused as to why a hoard of tall, white people kept stopping to photograph their cows. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Every home looked the same, varying only in size. Thatched roofs, woven bamboo siding, no electricity or running water. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Every home looked about the same, varying only in size depending on the generations living there. Thatched roofs, woven bamboo sides, no electricity or running water. We were told 60% of the country has no electricity or running water. © 2015 Gail Jessen
A traditional Burmese indulgence, a mix of tobacco, honey, and lime juice are rolled in a corn husk and smoked. © 2015 Gail Jessen
A traditional Burmese indulgence: A mix of tobacco, honey, and lime juice are rolled in a corn husk and smoked. © 2015 Gail Jessen

My most visceral memory of Ohn Ne Choung is by far the children. At first a little shy, they eventually warmed up to our presence and thought it was endlessly entertaining that we were in their village. Most of the children wanted their photo taken, and then wanted to see themselves on the screen. They would laugh and jostle each other, and speak excitedly to you as though you could understand. When you turn the camera around to show them their photo, the would only laugh harder, jostle harder, and speak in the most rapid tongues. They quickly learned which people would indulge their request for a photo every 47 seconds. It was these people they followed most closely through the village. They also figured out who would get down in the dirt with them and take the silliest of selfies. That would be me.

Children in Ohn Ne Choung going nuts to see themselves in my iPhone selfie screen. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Children in Ohn Ne Choung going nuts to see themselves in my iPhone selfie screen. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Every time I'd turn the camera around to show them the photo, they would crowd around to find their face, the face of their friend, tease each other for looking goofy... It was a fun memory for me. @ 2015 Heather Bush
Every time I’d turn the camera around to show them the photo, they would crowd around to find their face and the face of their friend, to tease each other for looking goofy… It was a fun memory for me. © 2015 Heather Bush
Two young boys, one a novice monk, decided to adopt me. They didn't leave my side for hours. Every minute or so I'd snap a new photo of them, per request, and we'd carry on. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Two young boys, one a novice monk, decided to adopt me. They didn’t leave my side for hours. Every minute or so I’d snap a new photo of them, per request, and we’d carry on. © 2015 Gail Jessen
I ended up with about 203 photos of kids and/or me with the kids. The first time I kneeled down to get in a photo with them, it felt as though the entire village ran over to shove themselves into the frame. My guess is it's rare for occasional tourists to get down on their level and play. I love the little boy staring at my white skin, just mesmerized by this weird giant in his village. © 2015 Gail Jessen
I ended up with about 203 photos of kids and/or me with the kids. The first time I kneeled down to get in a photo with them, it felt as though the entire village ran over to shove themselves into the frame. My guess is it’s rare for occasional tourists to get down on their level and play. I love the little boy staring at my white skin, just mesmerized by this weird giant in his village. © 2015 Gail Jessen
This woman requested I take a photo of her granddaughter. She wanted the baby to see her own face. © 2015 Gail Jessen
This woman requested I take a photo of her granddaughter. She wanted the baby to see her own face. The granddaughter is less than impressed with the trick. © 2015 Gail Jessen

I’d like to offer future passenger a few travel tips: Drop your ego. Be silly. Drip sweat. Make people laugh. Repeat. I thought the kids loved when I showed them their faces in a photo on my iPhone. They nearly lost their minds when I showed them this 15 second video. The playback was requested and delivered five times. They laughed harder every time they watched it. They thought I was just making goofy faces and taking photos. They had no idea I was actually filming all of it.

Meandering through the village, I eventually rounded a corner and came upon the women who were picking peanuts off the branches. I motioned to an empty spot on their circle and then pointed at myself, shrugging my shoulders. They lit up. Massive smiles. A village elder patted the dirt next to her.

Mountains of peanuts, still on their branches, waiting to be picked and shelled. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Mountains of peanuts, still on their branches, waiting to be picked and shelled. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Every women had near her one woven bamboo basket for shells, one woven bamboo basket for the nut. © 2015 Gail Jessen
Every women had near her one woven bamboo basket for shells and one basket for the nut. © 2015 Gail Jessen

I knelt down and they showed me how to remove the stems. My knees shook after two minutes. They’d been at this all day. They were watching me snap the peanut shells off the branches with the sweetest smirk on their faces. The elder woman split a shell open to show me a peanut inside. I’m pretty sure they assumed I’d never seen a peanut before.

When I made a motion to eat it and asked, “Okay?” All of them in unison, “YAS! OKAY! HAH!” When I popped the tiny peanut in my mouth, I smiled and made a surprised, yummy face. They cracked up. They cackled and pointed at me and mimicked my overly-exaggerated face. I let them think it was my first peanut.

This village elder didn't quite understand the iPhone selfie trick as well as the kids did and so she shied away. When I flipped it and showed her what I was up to, however, she laughed deeply, pointed at her own face, and hit the woman next to her on the shoulder as if to say, "LOOK! IT'S ME!" © 2015 Gail Jessen
This village elder didn’t quite understand the iPhone selfie trick as well as the kids did and so she shied away. When I flipped it and showed her what I was up to, however, she laughed deeply, pointed at her own face, and hit the woman next to her on the shoulder as if to say, “LOOK! IT’S ME!” © 2015 Gail Jessen
Looking back on this photo of me kneeling in dirty pile of peanuts, I'm reminded to travel as authentically as you can. We're all humans having smilier experiences, whether the specifics of the culture feel foreign to you or not. © 2015 Heather Bush
Village women share a slice of their daily lives with me. © 2015 Heather Bush

Looking back on the photo of me kneeling in dirty pile of peanuts (wearing white pants for whatever inexplicable reason), I’m reminded to travel as authentically as I can. We’re all humans having similar experiences, whether the specifics of the culture feel foreign to you or not. Kneel down and play with the kids. Help the women with their work, if you’re invited. Learn how to say key phrases in the local language. Curiosity wins the day if you’re craving authentic travel experiences. This Viking itinerary is perfect for people who crave that. It makes Burmese life feel instantly accessible, even if only for a few memorable moments.

Cheers to adventure,
gail


Our Voyage Report from Viking River Cruises’ Myanmar Explorer continues in the next article as we spend a full day exploring mythical Bagan, Myanmar! Be sure to come back and keep reading. You’re also invited to follow along with adventurer Gail Jessen on Twitter or Instagram.

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