Two years ago, I posted The Moselle: Europe’s Most Beautiful River – At Least During The Fall. The Moselle was just as enchanting when I cruised on Crystal Debussy earlier this month. The wine harvest was in full swing, with workers plucking grapes from vineyards that seemed to run straight up the steep hillsides. The weather was stunning along the Moselle, with sunny days and blue skies. The Rhine, by contrast, was rainy and overcast as we cruised it (both ways) between Amsterdam and Koblenz.

When I cruised Crystal Bach on the Moselle two years ago, I visited the wheelhouse early one morning as Captain Douwe was navigating the misty river. “It’s my favorite river,” said the captain, who added that he had been sailing for 48  years, ever since he was a young teen. He told me that when there is low water on the Rhine, he’ll sometimes deviate to the Moselle. He informs guests, of course, telling them that although the planned route needs to change, they would not be disappointed. “The Moselle is almost always a pleasant surprise for the guests,” he said to me.