Normandy On Two Wheels: Cycling With Backroads Along The Seine​

This past spring, I was a guest of Backroads as we explored Normandy on two wheels. Our home base was AmaLyra, which operates on the Seine for AmaWaterways. Each morning, we’d leave the ship to set out on our bikes and pedal through gorgeous countryside, most days having lunch at Backroads-curated restaurants. There was so much more than riding and eating, however.  Though I’d cruised the Seine several times, I’d never seen Normandy the way that Backroads presented it to 21 of us during one fun-filled and enriching week in May.

There are vacations, and then there are experiences. Vacations represent time away from our often chaotic lives. We escape our ordinary world to become tourists for a week or two in an extraordinary world. Vacations are largely defined by people who identify as  tourists. They return home and tell their friends, “What a great vacation we had.”

Experiences, on the other hand, are arguably more immersive and more enriching than what tourists might experience. Travelers, as opposed to tourists, actively seek out experiences away from the masses. Though I realize the differences are nuanced, I’ve been both a tourist and a traveler. I’ve escaped to relax, and I’ve escaped to explore and experience. 

It’s not just another trip to France, read the Backroads’ literature. Certainly that was the case for our group of 21, who ranged in age from the late 50s to early 80 on Backroads Seine River Cruise Bike Tour. The seven-night/eight-day trip was billed as “a new perspective.” And it was just that. We saw parts along the Seine that we never would have seen on a river cruise, and we saw them at just the right pace. One of my most potent memories is of the flowery fragrances and bird songs while pedaling to Monet’s Gardens in Giverny, which you’ll see in the video below. That experience would not have been the same had I been in a motorcoach. 

E-bikes, which the majority in our group pedaled, leveled the playing field between the fit and not-as-fit. Two team leaders, Emma and Otis, led us each day with two support cyclists, Leo and Anthony. Along the way, we enjoyed locally sourced snacks from the support van. On some days, we’d stop at a patisserie or a cafe for coffee, soft drinks and pastries, all compliments of Backroads. The support van traveling with us could perform a variety of tasks, from first aid to bike repair to shuttle service.

The beauty of Backroads is that you can ride at your own pace. For example, on the day that we visited Giverny, riders could opt for a three-mile ride to Monet’s Gardens, then after a visit of the gardens, we could ride another nine miles to Chateau Roche Guyon, an ancient fortress that was carved into the limestone cliffs. For those who wanted more pedaling, a 10-mile ride took us back to AmaLyra.

Our days would often begin with breakfast on the ship before gathering our gear. We met outside for a 10-minute to 15-minute talk about our route. These were entertaining events, with bits of straps or string representing rivers and roadways, bottles and cans representing hills, and our tour leaders thoroughly explaining mileage, distance, where we’d stop and more. They also gave us many options. We could choose to skip the hills, for example, opting to be shuttled up in the support van that was with us the whole time. We could choose long or short routes, and after lunch, we had the option to pedal more or shuttle back to the ship. All along the way, there was plentiful nutrition and hydration, with many surprises such as impromptu cider tastings or croissants at a popular rural bakery. Lunch at the wonderful Auberge des Ruines in Jumièges (photos below) was a highlight and simply unforgettable.
Originally from Normandy, Emmanuelle Lanfray practiced law before following her passion to lead for Backroads. She had good things to say about the company's leadership and policies. "They do a great job in helping us team leaders keep our sparkle and passion for what we do," she told me during our ride from Giverny.
Backroads without its wonderful team leaders would be like an expedition cruise with no Zodiacs. It just wouldn't be the same experience without them. Pictured, the delightful Otis Umney, originally from the isle of Jersey but now living in the south of France.

Although our ship was AmaLyra, ours was only partially an AmaWaterways’ experience. We slept in our staterooms each evening and enjoyed breakfast and dinner on the ship but often had lunches ashore at charming venues that Backroads had chosen in advance. Backroads picked up the tab for our lunches, as well as all gratuities, including those suggested for AmaLyra’s crew. 

We visited places that we would not have otherwise known about and dined at restaurants we’d have never found. A few photos below show some of those places and experiences. 

Riding from Rouen, we stopped for coffee and croissants in La Bouille, a pretty village alongside the Seine.

It’s hard to fully describe the Backroads experience. The closest analogy I can think of is that it’s like an expedition cruise vs a regular holiday cruise. The expedition ship’s Zodiacs, or in our case, bicycles, allowed for total immersion in the landscapes that we visited, just like Zodiacs allow for landings ashore.

The Backroads’ team leaders were like expedition leaders, with their breadth of knowledge and expertise. It just wouldn’t have been the same experience without them.

What I’ve given you here is simply a taste, or to put it in French terms, the amuse-bouche. To get the full experience, you’ll simply need to book your Backroads adventure. You won’t be sorry you did. 

After croissants, we pedaled to Jumièges Abbey, founded more than 1,500 years ago.
Touring the ruins of Jumièges Abbey.
In Jumièges, we dined at Auberge des Ruines, where chef Christophe Mauduit, served up delicious cuisine from locally sourced ingredients.
Cheese at Auberge des Ruines

Our Trip In Photos

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On Three River Cruises In May, I Took Away A Few Tips For Better Trips

I returned home this past Friday after almost four weeks in Europe. While there, I hosted a barge trip that ended in happy tears, bookended by two river cruises. I’ll be writing more about those trips in the coming weeks. For now, I wanted to share a few things I learned while traveling Europe in the hope that what I took away will help other travelers.

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