Nestled along the Moselle river, the German town of Bernkastel is rich in history, charm and wine-making tradition. On the morning I arrived, in October of 2021, there was a chill in the air as wispy clouds draped the green hills behind the town. Bernkastel’s medieval charm and half-timbered houses could easily set the scene for a fairy tale.
During my Dream Cruise next month, we’re scheduled to dock in Bernkastel on Monday, October 7 at 8 p.m. We’ll remain docked overnight, departing Tuesday October 8 at 6 p.m. That gives us plenty of time to explore on any of the three excursions being offered here: a guided walking tour through town with a stop at a winery; or a Moselle bike tour along the river; or a hike to Landshut Castle, which sits high above the town below.
Bernkastel’s origins trace back to Roman times, when the Moselle served as an essential trade route. Evidence of Roman influence is found in the region’s architecture and viticulture, which continues to thrive today. The Romans recognized the fertile soil and favorable climate, ideal for growing grapes, and established vineyards along the riverbanks.
In the 11th century, the town began to grow in prominence under the protection of local lords and bishops. The construction of Landshut Castle, which overlooks the town, is one of the earliest records of Bernkastel’s medieval development. Built in the late 13th century, it served as a fortress for the Archbishop of Trier, a position of significant power in the Holy Roman Empire.
Bernkastel thrived during the Middle Ages, becoming an essential center for trade and viticulture. The Moselle allowed the town to connect with larger markets, exporting its highly sought-after wines to regions across Europe. Wine-growing, still the town’s primary industry, took root during this period, with vineyards expanding along the riverbanks. The combination of steep slopes, rich slate soils, and the Moselle’s temperate climate made the area ideal for producing Riesling, a variety of wine that would become synonymous with the region.
Throughout the medieval period, Bernkastel experienced periods of prosperity and hardship. The town suffered during wars and conflicts, notably during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648), when it was frequently pillaged. However, Bernkastel always managed to rebuild and maintain its status as an economic and cultural center.
By the 18th century, Bernkastel had cemented its reputation for producing some of the world’s finest Riesling wines. The unique terroir of the Moselle Valley gave the wines a distinct character—light, aromatic and full of flavor. Wine merchants and enthusiasts from around Europe sought out Bernkastel’s Rieslings, further enhancing the town’s prestige.
The 19th century brought modernization to Bernkastel, including the construction of roads, railways and improved transportation along the Moselle. This allowed for even greater distribution of its wines and more visitors to the region. Wine tourism grew as people from across Europe flocked to experience the wines and scenic beauty of the Moselle Valley.
Like many European towns, Bernkastel faced significant challenges in the 20th century, particularly during the two World Wars. The region was heavily bombed during World War II, and Landshut Castle had been damaged by fire in 1692. However, the town’s resilient spirit persevered, as Bernkastel rebuilt and revitalized its wine industry in the post-war years.
Today, Bernkastel is part of Bernkastel-Kues after merging with its twin town across the river. The thriving destination attracts tourists and wine lovers alike. Bernkastel hosts an annual wine festival that draws visitors from around the world to sample its celebrated Rieslings. The historic old town, with its half-timbered houses, narrow cobblestone streets, and the iconic Landshut Castle ruins, remains a testament to its medieval past.
Bernkastel’s history is intertwined with the Moselle and its wines, a tradition that continues to flourish as the town looks to the future while preserving its vibrant past. The town, even after several visits on river cruises, remains a favorite of mine, and I’m sure anyone visiting Bernkastel will feel the same.
