For the past couple of weeks, I’ve pitched camp in Vienna. The capital and largest city in Austria, Vienna is a highlight on Danube river cruises. The city’s rich history, imperial grandeur, world-famous music, expansive parks, majestic palaces and coffeehouse culture make for exceptional excursions from ships that dock 10 to 15 minutes away from the city center. The city also makes for an exceptional pre- or post-river cruise stay.

I had a tough time deciding where to stay after my AmaMagna cruise ended in Budapest, a city that I absolutely adore. But I had spent extended time in Budapest in 2016 (see Exploring Budapest), and I wanted to get to know Vienna a little better. Plus, as someone who enjoys cycling, I knew that Vienna was a little more bike-friendly than Budapest, although the latter is making great strides with dedicated bike lanes and routes.

To get to Vienna, I took a train from Budapest – a pleasant journey of less than three hours for only €25.

Upon arrival at Vienna’s main train station, I used the metro to get to my AirBnB near the City Hall (Rathaus). I’ve spent time in Vienna before, but this was the first time I stayed in a real neighborhood – District 8, Josefstadt. My AirBnB features a rooftop terrace – and a large kitchen – for much less than I would have paid at one of the hotels in the historic city center. Locals tell me they love living in this neighborhood, and I can see why. Around me are coffee shops, restaurants, bars and shops. I could easily walk to the Museum Quarter in 12 minutes or to the city center. 

I bought a seven-day metro ticket (€19.70) and rented a bike (€85). I’m sure I’ve pedaled more than 100 miles in the nine days that I’ve been here. It’s easy in Vienna. The city is built for living. Bikes and pedestrians rule here. There are dedicated bike roads and paths, with traffic lights specifically for the bikes. More importantly, however, people here are bike aware. Drivers never turn in front of bikes, pedestrians (even children) never wander into the bike lanes. Even the dogs are mindful. 

I also pedaled part of Eurovelo 6, which runs from the Atlantic coast to the Black Sea. It’s known as the rivers route because it follows much of the Loire, Rhine, and Danube.

Of course, most river cruisers want more than bike rides. That’s just my preference. I will say that cycling is perhaps the best way to see a city that accommodates bikes. I may not have seen, for example, the graffiti in the photos below had I not been on a bike.

I’ve yet to visit the major attractions during my stay this time. At Kaffee Kunze, a small coffee shop around the corner from my AirBnB, India, the 20-something waitress who once lived in New York, said that she believes the best way to get to know a city is just by hanging out. That’s exactly what I’ve been doing. I’m starting to see familiar faces. A few people now greet me by name when I walk into their shops or restaurants. India made a list of non-touristy things for me to see and do. Her advice was well-received. Don’t get your Sacher Torte at the expensive cafes, she said. Go to a place like Kaffee Kafka instead. I will. Of course, I understand that those who have yet to experience Sacher Torte would want to do so at the famous Sacher Hotel or Demel.

I feel like I’m scratching beneath Vienna’s surface, and I like what I’m discovering. No wonder Vienna is often ranked as one of the world’s best cities for living. 

To make my week even better, Vienna has had unseasonably warm weather, with sunny skies and highs in the 60s. The Viennese have emerged in throngs, filling the many public parks and gardens, with blankets strewn on the grounds and picnic baskets brimming over with goodies. The early spring flowers are in bloom. People sit at cafes with their faces turned up toward the sun. No doubt, the European spring is upon us.

Rain is in the forecast this week, and thankfully so. The Danube is running low, and some ships can’t navigate. That will soon change with the rain coming. And the snow is melting in the Alps. Soon the Danube will be flowing full again. 

I’m staying on for another week to attend the American Society of Travel Advisor’s River Cruise Expo, which kicks off Wednesday and runs through Sunday. I should learn lots about the trends in river cruising, which I will share with you. Then on Sunday of next week, I will be departing Vienna on Riverside’s Mozart. I’ve been on the ship when it operated for Deilmann and Crystal. It will be interesting to see Riverside’s style. I can’t wait.

See our guide Exploring Venerable Vienna, Austria