There’s something special about stepping onto a ship for the first time; and while Avalon Artistry II is now 12 years old, her recent refit had her feeling brand new. She’s a 128-passenger vessel, just right for sailing the rivers of France, with thoughtful updates that brought a fresh energy to the ship: a stylishly revamped lounge, a sleek new fleet of handmade bicycles and cozy spaces on board that made it easy to settle in and feel at home.

I was onboard to preview something equally fresh: Avalon’s new Bonjour Bordeaux itinerary. This sailing marked a new chapter for Avalon in France, an eight-day journey through the famed wine region, filled with vineyards, charming villages and wine tastings that might just have even the most casual drinker talking about “terroir.” From the rolling vineyards of the Médoc to the hilltop town of Saint-Émilion, this itinerary was designed to showcase Bordeaux’s best – in and out of the glass.

This was a shortened preview sailing, so the itinerary we followed was a little different from what future guests will experience. That said, the excursions I joined are all part of the full itinerary, just condensed into fewer days for this trip.

Day One: Bordeaux

We kicked things off in Bordeaux, which set the tone perfectly for the rest of the trip: charming, walkable and very into wine. While waiting at the airport, someone casually mentioned that Bordeaux was “really just known as a wine region,” and said they hoped people would also appreciate the beauty of the area beyond the vineyards. And we did. The towns we visited were full of personality, the landscapes were stunning and the people couldn’t have been more welcoming. That said, If you don’t imbibe at all, you might feel like you’re missing a layer of the experience. But if you’re wine-curious or just along for the scenery, there’s still so much to enjoy.

Avalon does offer non-wine-focused excursions, from guided hikes and e-bike rides to art galleries and architectural walks, but at the end of the day, this is Bordeaux. The wine is going to find its way in, whether through a tasting, a vineyard drive or a casual pour during your tour. Our visit to Saint-Émilion, for example, wasn’t marketed as a wine-focused day, but still included a small tasting.

Okay, back to day one … Since we had the afternoon free to explore, a lot of guests took advantage of the prime docking location to stroll around, pop into shops or grab a glass of local rosé. I stayed on the ship that day to get acquainted with the ship and my fellow travelers (and maybe a few cookies and coffees from the Club Lounge), but I did venture into town on our final day.

Day Two: Médoc

On our second day, we ventured into the Médoc region, famous for its deep red wines and grand châteaux (that’s chateau but plural), for a panoramic drive and wine tasting. (That’s cruise-speak for “get ready for a scenic bus ride.”) The landscape really was beautiful, and our guide gave some great context on Bordeaux’s wine-producing history as we looped our way through the countryside.

Eventually, we made our way to a château for a tasting, and that part was a definite highlight. We got to see the tanks where the wine was made, and the barrels where it was stored. The space was striking, dark and dramatic with pops of colorful lighting. Plus, the château’s own wine expert was incredibly informative. We had the chance to walk through the vineyard and learn more about the harvesting and production process before trying two vintages of the same wine. I would’ve liked a bit more variety in the tasting itself, but the experience as a whole was still memorable.

That said, the drive felt a little long. We were only about ten minutes from where the ship was docked, but the panoramic part of the excursion stretched that into an hour of winding roads and sightseeing detours. For someone like me (who has to sit in the very front row to avoid getting car sick), it was a little more bus time than I’d prefer. If you’re all about the journey, you’ll love it. But if you’re in it for the wine, just know that part comes later.

Day Three: Blaye

This day is a little hard to explain but that’s exactly why I loved it. While the excursion was technically described as wine tasting and painting in Blaye, what we actually got was part wine tasting, part art project, part local tour and part one-man show from the unforgettable Leslie Keller.

Leslie, originally from South Africa, owns La Petite Cave, a boutique wine bar and shop in the heart of Blaye. He also owns most of the block. What started as a simple wine tasting quickly turned into a behind-the-scenes tour of his entire world. We began with a tasting in the shop, learning about smaller, harder-to-find wines from across the region. Then we crossed the street to a hotel he owns (where he once hosted Kate Winslet) and heard more of his personal story, including why he believes Bordeaux produces some of the best wines in the world.

(Side note: he claimed French wine doesn’t give you a hangover like others do. From what I understand, that’s likely due to lower sulfite content, fewer additives and less sugar compared to mass-produced wines elsewhere. But I’ll take it from Leslie. He would know ad he shared with us that he drinks two to three bottles a day.)

From there, we walked past a small part of his collection of classic cars and into his wife’s art studio, artist Clarissa Schaefer, where we were invited to help paint a collaborative piece. “We’re not leaving until every square is painted,” they told us. It was silly, fun and the kind of hands-on experience that makes you feel just a little more connected to the place and each other. Wine in hand, of course.

We continued into their gallery space, which featured a variety of works, including some by Clarissa. Then it was on to his wine cellar (which could probably support a small village) and finally a peek at the apartments they rent out in the area. I’ll admit, the apartment tour felt a bit like an Airbnb open house, but some guests loved it.

Not everyone was as captivated as I was by Leslie and Clarissa, a couple guests quietly slipped out halfway through, but for me, they were a real highlight of the trip. It was weird and wonderful in the best way. The kind of excursion that’s hard to describe but easy to remember. A little art, a little wine, a little storytelling and some of the best cheese I’ve ever had? That’s a win in my book.

Day Four: Saint-Émilion

Saint-Émilion was probably the most visually striking stop on our itinerary with hillside views, winding cobblestone streets and the kind of golden light that makes everyone’s photos look good no matter how hard they try. But the day started off a little less picturesque …

A marathon was taking place in town that morning, which made things interesting for our motorcoach driver. She had to navigate an obstacle course of parked cars, narrow roads and streets that were definitely not meant for a vehicle of that size. But actually, we were all having fun watching her work. At one point, locals literally got out of their cars to help stop traffic so we could squeeze through. People were cheering on our driver like we were in some kind of slow-motion action movie. It felt like we were being personally escorted through Saint-Émilion. VIP energy.

Once we made it into the town, we toured an old cathedral, wandered through the historic center and had a lovely sparkling wine tasting in a quiet courtyard. From there, we had some free time to explore. Since it was a Sunday, most shops were closed, but that was no problem. We just walked through the sleepy little streets.

Of course, “walking” turned into “climbing” pretty quickly. Saint-Émilion is built on some truly ancient, aggressively uneven streets, and I decided it was a good idea to conquer one of the steeper ones. My friend was in heels, clinging to my arm like we were scaling Everest, while we huffed our way to the top. Just as we reached the summit, a local casually jogged down the hill past us like it was nothing. We took that personally.

Naturally, we rewarded ourselves with a cappuccino and a handful of wine-soaked raisins dipped in chocolate, something the locals love and insisted we try. No notes. 10/10. Would “hike” for snacks again.

Day Five: Bordeaux – La Cité du Vin

We started the day with a short tram ride from the boat and hopped off right in front of La Cité du Vin, Bordeaux’s futuristic wine museum. If you’ve ever wanted to feel like you’re stepping into the Epcot of wine, this is your moment.

The building itself looks like a giant swirl of wine in motion, and inside it’s part museum, part immersive experience. There were smell stations, interactive exhibits and massive video displays. You could even test your knowledge in a wine quiz, or take a personality test to figure out which type of wine you were.

You could easily spend hours here geeking out on wine history, geography and production techniques from around the world. But I just wandered through, picked and chose what caught my eye. We wrapped things up on the top floor in a tasting room, as Avalon included a wine tasting in our tour. I tried a rosé that was named the staff favorite wine and sipped while looking out over the city.

And the gift shop is shockingly excellent. This was one of the few times I’ve felt compelled to buy something for my mom and grandmother – both big wine lovers. I walked out with wine-flavored pepper for them, which felt weirdly perfect. And secretly, it’s just an excuse to get them to make us steaks to try it on. Great impulse purchase.

We took a nice walk back along the Garonne and strolled into some really nice shops, just a stones throw from where we were docked. One store, Echoppe de la lune, had only products that were made in Bordeaux organized from how early they were developed in the region until modern day. The shopkeeper was so nice and really loved telling us about the town she lives in.

Final Thoughts

If someone had told me I’d be wine tasting, art collaborating, hill climbing, and tram riding all in the same trip, I probably would’ve said “sure, but only if cheese is involved.” And guess what? It was. So yeah, I’d do it again.

All jokes aside, Avalon’s Bonjour Bordeaux itinerary offers something a little different from your standard river cruise. Less castle-hopping and more cork-popping. And while our sailing was a condensed version, it left me wanting more – in a good way.

Next time, I’ll be back for the full itinerary.