There’s a quiet kind of joy that comes from floating through France at walking speed. That’s what we experienced on a recent CroisiEurope barge cruise through Alsace, drifting from Strasbourg to Lagarde over the course of a week. We covered just 65 miles, but with 41 locks along the way, we had plenty of time to savor every stretch. This isn’t a trip for checking boxes or racing between tourist sites. It’s a trip for lingering—over meals, conversations and canal-side strolls or cycling.
During our sunny week of barging Alsace in late May, we had lots of opportunities to get out to walk and bicycle. © 2025 Ralph Grizzle
Getting to Strasbourg is easy. I usually fly into either Paris or Frankfurt, depending on which works best with my award points. Paris sometimes comes out ahead with SkyTeam and Delta from Atlanta for me. Frankfurt tends to be better for American from Charlotte. From either city, a two-hour train ride gets you to Strasbourg—usually direct or with a single, easy connection. That’s another reason I pack light: one carry-on, one personal item. Packing light also helps with stateroom storage. My suitcases easily fit under the bed. No need to dress up on the barge. It’s a casual atmosphere. Even my light packing was more than I needed. Next time, I’ll pare my items down even further.
Strasbourg is too lovely to rush through, so I always build in two or three nights before the cruise. Hotel Rohan, near the cathedral, is my usual base for its charm and central location. Others prefer the Regent Petite France with its riverside views and spa. Either way, it’s a great city to start settling into the Alsatian rhythm—wine bars, medieval lanes, and the ever-present scent of fresh-baked kugelhopf.
We boarded our barge in Strasbourg, where our small group (never more than 22) settled into cozy cabins—compact, yes, but more than enough for a week. The real magic happens outside your room anyway: in the lounge, at the dining table, out on deck or in the Jacuzzi with a glass of Crémant d’Alsace.
From Strasbourg to Waltenheim, Saverne, Lutzelbourg, Xouaxange, and finally Lagarde, the pace is deliberately slow. And that’s where the joy comes in—especially along the towpaths.
Towpaths are the original highways of canal life. Long before engines, boats were pulled by horses or donkeys walking along the edge of the canal, connected by tow ropes. These flat, grassy (or sometimes paved) trails still hug the water’s edge and are now ideal for walking or biking.
On our cruise, we could hop off at locks—there are 41 between Strasbourg and Lagarde—and either walk or cycle to the next stop. You’re never far from the barge, and it’s hard to get lost with the water as your guide. Some of my favorite moments were spent pedaling alongside the canal, with its abundant birdlife (storks, for example) and the barge gently gliding beside me.
CroisiEurope’s crew makes all the difference. Zsuzsi, our cruise manager, kept the energy light and the logistics seamless. Mónika, in the dining room, had us laughing every meal. Captain Marco even hosted an hourlong Q&A, fielding everything from barge mechanics to the future of barging in France. And then there was Yves, our chef, turning out multi-course meals that would impress even the most discerning Parisian. Giving Yves a night off, one night, we gathered at a local winstub for tarte flambée—Alsace’s answer to pizza, thin and crisp and perfect with a glass of Alsatian white or local beer.
If you’ve followed me on RiverCruiseAdvisor.com, you know I talk often about barge cruising in Alsace. Yes, the cabins are smallish (though no one has ever complained). Yes, it’s a very different experience than a 150-passenger river cruise. But that’s the point. You move slowly. You connect—with the crew, with fellow travelers, with the place itself. You disembark with hugs and possibly even a few tears (I have seen it happen more than once).
If you’re looking for something quieter, more personal, and deeply rooted in local life, CroisiEurope’s Alsace barge cruise delivers. One lock, one plate of tarte flambée, one perfectly timed punchline from Mónika at a time.
I’m glad you’re considering joining one of these wonderful adventures. I’ve hosted these trips since 2015 because I love the experience. No two sailings are alike, and in fact, I’ve done multiple sailings on some of the itineraries. If you’re like most who travel with me, the barges will be the trip of a lifetime.
