We were supposed to start with a jet boat ride through Hells Canyon – skimming along the Snake River, taking in the cliffs, maybe even spotting some bighorn sheep. But travel had other plans.

After being delayed out of Asheville in a TSA meltdown that funneled the entire airport into a single working security line, we arrived in Washington a full day later than expected. It wasn’t quite the start we’d envisioned, but by the time Emma and I checked into the Holiday Inn in Clarkston, we were just happy to be there.

This was the beginning of our weeklong journey aboard American Jazz, sailing from Clarkston to Astoria with American Cruise Lines. I wrote more about the onboard experience, what surprised me and what I loved in this post. But a lot of the magic of this itinerary lived off the ship.

Our excursions brought us to volcanoes, tiny downtowns full of handmade chocolates and closed-on-Sunday shops and to places I didn’t even know were on the map. This is what we did on the Columbia & Snake Rivers.

Clarkston & The Jet Boat That Got Away

The jet boat was the first casualty. We were originally scheduled to arrive in Clarkston two days before the cruise, giving us time to settle in and, more importantly, time for that Hells Canyon adventure. But instead, we spent the better part of our travel day crawling through a line that snaked the full length of the Asheville airport, thanks to all but one TSA scanner going down. It felt like the entire city had shown up at once, and we were being checked in one by one, either manually or through the single remaining X-ray machine.

By the time we made it out west the next day, we’d already missed the boat. Literally.

Still, we had one night before embarkation in Clarkston, which Emma described as “quite possibly the smallest town [she’s] ever seen”. We stayed at the Holiday Inn, which, while a little dated, was full of friendly staff, clean and well-located. It was docked just minutes from the ship and within walking distance of Clarkston’s main streets, where we found surprisingly good food, a cozy vibe and a spot called The Drinky Box that quickly became our favorite bar. But then again, I think it was the only option anyway.

We didn’t love missing the jet boat, especially after other told us how fun it was, but after the day we’d had prior, landing somewhere low-key with a good bar and a river view felt like a win.

Pendleton, Oregon: Wool, Tunnels And Really Good Cookies

From Clarkston, we boarded American Jazz and set sail for Richland, Washington, our gateway to Pendleton, Oregon. The bus ride there was long enough to count as part of the excursion, but our guide, Elicia, made it fly by. She was easily one of the best guides we had all week – knowledgeable, funny and deeply connected to the region.

I’ll admit, I didn’t know anything about Pendleton, but it turns out the town has a long history tied to the Pendleton Woolen Mills and its massive annual rodeo, the Pendleton Round-Up. It’s second-largest in the country.

We visited on a Sunday, so the town had that sleepy, closed-up feel, but it suited the mood. We started with an underground tour that was a pretty creative way to be introduced to a town’s history. Another guide led us through tunnels beneath downtown that once held a Chinese laundry, a Prohibition-era speakeasy and the basements of long-gone businesses – an ice cream shop, a butcher and more. It was a little quirky, sure, but pretty fascinating.

After the tour, we headed to Sister’s Café, where we’d pre-selected our meals the night before on the ship. I had a burger (pretty good), but the real standout was the cookies. Don’t skip em!

We had a little time to explore afterward. Some shops were closed, but we still found gems. Alexander’s Artisan Chocolates was a highlight, run by a couple who clearly love what they do. The chocolates were gorgeous and experimental (yes, one had cheese in it), and while they weren’t cheap, they were absolutely worth it. They also sell wine, but we skipped that in favor of seeing more of the town.

On the way back, we stopped at the Tamástslikt Cultural Institute, which had a nicely curated collection. Cases of intricate beadwork, ceremonial items, tools and jewelry told a broader story of the Indigenous peoples of the Columbia. It was quiet, powerful and well presented. A lot of people picked up Pendleton blankets here, and it felt like the right place to do it.

Sailing Day: Crossword Puzzles And Stunning Views

The day after Pendleton was spent onboard, and while I already shared a lot about what these days felt like, it’s worth saying again. This itinerary knows how to pace itself.

We didn’t have anywhere to be and that ended up being kind of perfect. The Columbia and Snake Rivers wind through some of the most remote stretches of the Pacific Northwest, and the views are genuinely breathtaking. Everything was dry and golden when we arrived, but by the time we sailed out of Richland, the landscape started shifting. Brown rridges gave way to tree-lined cliffs. It was stunning sailing into Stevenson.

Onboard, things stayed pretty relaxed. There were quizzes, crosswords, scavenger hunts and group games if you wanted to join in. Plenty of people just read or played cards in the lounges. The internet wasn’t always reliable so if you’re someone who needs constant connection, this might be a challenge. But who needs it when you’ve got such beautiful views right in front of you?

Stevenson, Washington: Kayaks, Hikes And A Happy Detour

Our next stop was Stevenson, which we weren’t originally scheduled to visit. Normally, this day would have taken us to The Dalles, but due to some docking issues, we rerouted. And, having nothing to compare it to, I loved the change.

Stevenson is small but charming, with a laid-back, outdoorsy energy. There’s a waterfront path that runs along the Columbia, a few local shops and cafés and a general sense that life moves at a more peaceful pace here.

That morning, we joined a kayaking excursion along the Wind River and out onto the Columbia. This wasn’t the kayaking option listed on American Cruise Lines’ website, the usual tour is set around an aquifer melt from Mount Adams, but what we got instead was quiet and scenic. The water was calm, the views were stunning and even as someone with minimal kayaking experience, I found it peaceful and manageable.

In the afternoon, we joined a group for a hike up Beacon Rock, which isn’t listed on the American Cruise Lines website either so I am not sure if this is an excursion they typically offer. The hike itself wasn’t long, but it was steep in parts and gave us a chance to stretch our legs and take in sweeping views of the Columbia Gorge. We didn’t learn much about the area during the hike, it was more about taking in the views and the nature, but the fresh air and change of pace were worth it. Plus, we ended up connecting with a few other guests along the trail, which was a nice change from just waving to people at breakfast.

Kalama to Mount St. Helens: The Long Drive That Was Worth It

Kalama was one of the more relaxed stops on our itinerary, but we still found plenty to enjoy. There’s a small but lovely market right by the river, with food trucks out front and a handful of shops tucked inside, including a bakery that had a very convincing hold on us the second we walked in.

But the real highlight of the day was the excursion to Mount St. Helens. We boarded one of American Cruise Lines’ coaches and headed into the hills with a driver named Ken, who immediately made the whole bus fall in love with him. Not only was he a genuinely excellent driver (this matters when you’re winding up a mountain), but he’d been in college when the volcano erupted, and had stories to prove it.

The actual tour was led by a local guide who walked us through the history of the eruption, the science behind it, and the impact it had on the surrounding region. At one point, he casually dropped the detail that the blast reached 300 mph and also that it didn’t just erupt, it blew the entire side of the mountain off. That image stuck with all of us.

We started at the lower visitor center, where we could see the mountain in the distance and walk a short loop trail that gave us some context. But the views from the upper visitors center were the real payoff. It was a long day on the bus, but once we reached the overlook, it was absolutely worth it. Someone had binoculars and passed them around and you could see a glacier inside the crater. It was so cool.

Astoria, Oregon: Cape Disappointment and a Stroll Through Town

Astoria was our final port before sailing back toward Stevenson and it ended up being a great place to wrap up the trip. The day started with a visit to Cape Disappointment, which luckily did not live up to its name.

Our guide took us first to Waikiki Beach, a small, driftwood-strewn stretch of sand where trees from the eruption of Mount St Helens landed after floating down river. Then we made our way up to the cape itself, where we learned about Lewis and Clark’s arrival at the Pacific and about the British officer who mistakenly thought the Columbia River was just a bay and sailed on without investigating further, leading to the cape’s name. It’s not a river, it’s just a disappointing bay! He thought. One of many near-misses in Pacific Northwest history.

By this point in the week, the rhythm of bus, guide, landmark, bus was starting to feel familiar, but the setting made up for it. The combination of rugged coastline and distant lighthouse views felt cinematic, and it was nice to be near salt air after so many river towns.

That afternoon, we had time to explore downtown Astoria. It’s a charming little grid of shops, restaurants, breweries and cafés, all set against a backdrop of sloping streets and historic buildings. We wandered, shopped, sampled and just enjoyed the easy pace of the place. People were friendly, the weather was nice for us and the town had that low-key, lived-in feel that made it easy to settle into.

Final Thoughts

By the time left Astoria for our last full day on board, everything felt quieter – in a good, satisfying way. We had one more sailing day to slow down, pack up and watch the scenery shift around us one last time. After a week of moving town to town, it was the pause we didn’t know we needed.

American Cruise Lines kept things moving at a comfortable pace, with plenty of downtime between excursions and just enough structure to keep us grounded. We boarded American Jazz not entirely sure what to expect and we left with stories that we are so happy to share with our friends back home. There were a few surprises, a few detours and a lot of places I might not have chosen on my own but I’m glad I ended up in.

It wasn’t the most dramatic trip I’ve ever taken, but it might be one of the easiest to remember.